How to Roadtrip the Garden Route in South Africa

June 16, 2023

QUICK VIEW:
An extended road trip following South Africa’s Garden Route is sure to delight the senses. Get ready for exceptional ocean views, wilderness, baboons, old school farmers, whale watching, and sheer beauty.

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Most serious travelers to South Africa's Western Cape are aware of the awe-inspiring Garden Route. Both National Geographic and Lonely Planet have written extensive guides covering this natural treasure.

The official conception of the Garden Route starts in Mossel Bay and ends somewhere near Stormsriver, just beyond George and Knysna. This amazing stretch of coastal highway runs about 65 miles/106 km!

But, ... what if you could combine the magic of the Garden Route with the magnificent scenery between Gordon's Bay and Mossel Bay, a 310 mile/500 km roadtrip that you'll never forget?

Can you say Supersize?

Researching our expanded route revealed a long list of tantalizing experiences and sites:

 ... Stony Point Penguins ... Hermanus & Whale Watching ... Oude Post Bistro Roosterkoek ...  a Riversdale Farm Experience ... Still Bay ... Mossel Bay ... Wilderness Drive & Sedgefield ... Goukamma Nature Reserve ... Knysna & George ... and our Extra Bonus in Uniondale

Roadtrip, here we come! 

Garden Route

The ocean view along the Garden Route drive was particularly expansive and quite beautiful

We are Rainman and Tricia ... and we are the Road Hackers

As Road Hackers, we specialize in building itineraries that allow us to discover diamonds in the rough all over the world. These amazing places are usually well known to domestic travelers and narrow segments of the international traveling market. 

Although popular with European travelers, South Africa doesn't attract as many Asians and North Americans. The goal of our Blog is to share this special South African itinerary with new audiences around the world. South Africa's natural beauty deserves a much bigger audience!

Our supersized Garden Route itinerary is a great introduction to South Africa. 

Join us as we share our experiences traveling from Gordon's Bay to Knysna!

Roadtripping the R44

There are a number of ways to get to the Garden Route from Gordon's Bay, or from Cape Town for that matter. The N2 highway is no doubt the most efficient routing. The road is in excellent condition and very well marked throughout.

Unfortunately, taking the N2 would mean missing the spectacular coastal drive along the R44 between Gordn's Bay and Hermanus. We weren't about to miss that experience.

The condition of the coastal roads made travel easy on this scenic drive

Our chosen itinerary should take anywhere from three to eight days, depending on interests, budget, and tendency to get distracted ... and that would be very easy to do. 

There are so many captivating attractions along the way. We would have loved to explore so many of the little towns and sites along the way.

Our itinerary took four days, but, in hindsight, it would have been even more enjoyable over eight days.

Mauricio, our South African brother-in-law, picked us up bright and early and we headed out on the coastal R44 toward Hermanus.

Mauricio was intimately familiar with the coastal highways from his motorcycle club days. The R44 was a favorite challenge on weekends. The road twists and turns, hugs the coast, and delivers spectacular views of the Atlantic at every curve. Biker paradise!

Route 44 on the eastern edge of False Bay twists and turns along the coastal route that leads to Hermanus

Making the most of the Route 44 detour, our first stop was at the Drummond Arms restaurant in Roos Els. Wild baboons frequent this rather remote area, and we weren't disappointed. A troop of baboons were doing their rounds that morning.

Signs caution customers not to feed the baboons! We most certainly heeded the warning ... Baboons have very fierce-looking teeth!

We spotted several wild baboons roaming free in the remote area of Rooi Els

Continuing on the R44, we saw a massive man-made tidal pool below us. We pulled off briefly to appreciate this beautiful addition to the ocean's majesty. Every bend in the road seemed to reveal another gem!

The view of this man-made tidal pool was worth briefly pausing on our journey

Our next stop was at the Stony Point Nature Reserve near Betty's Bay.  Stony Point has the third largest African penguin breeding colony in the world.

Though we had already visited the huge penguin colony in Simon's Town, we were inquisitive to see this sanctuary as well. The Reserve has an extensive boardwalk that took us out to the colony, similar to The Boulders but on a somewhat smaller scale.

The Stony Point Nature Reserve is located near Betty's Bay, and the wooden boardwalk provided an easy way to get closer to the penguins and the beautiful views of the ocean

The Stony Point Reserve is located very close to an old abandoned whaling station that had been active in the early 1900s. One can still see the cement slipway. Today, only the penguins and researchers use the ramp.

The cement slab may no longer be used by whalers, but it's still beneficial for researchers, and the penguins

This pristine natural setting is home to other wildlife as well.

Dassies (hyraxes) and a few gull species were quite comfortable sharing the habitat with the penguins. Three different species of Cormorant breed in this area: Black-, Crowned-, and Cape Cormorant. 

Huge kelp forests provide a rich underwater environment for sea life--and plenty of food for the penguins. This was clearly a protected area.

The waters off the Nature Reserve contain extensive kelp forests, which are home to complex ecosystems

Kleinmond would be our next destination, a small fishing village just up the road. The seas were really rough that day, and we wondered how the boats made it beyond the protected launching area.

Kleinmond lies near the mouth of the Bot River Lagoon. This area marks the beginning of a protected UNESCO-declared Biosphere that extends from Betty's Bay all the way to Hermanus.

The boat launch at Kleinmond, with cement tables for processing the day's catch

Time to head to our lunch destination and South Africa's whale watching capital--Hermanus.

Thousands of tourists and nature lovers visit Hermanus each year. The World Wildlife Fund considers Hermanus as one of the 12-best whale watching locations in the world!

Southern Right Whales come up from the Antarctic to mate and breed in the calm waters off Hermanus. The peak whale season starts in July and goes through December.

The Hermanus Whale Festival is celebrated on the last weekend in September each year.

Hermanus is known for its winter visitors and is considered a top whale watching site

It was a bit of a gray day, but the setting was brilliant as we drove up to one of the most popular look-out points above the quaint little fishing harbor. We scanned the waters hoping to catch an off-season sighting, but no such luck.

We searched the waters for a whale sighting, but were rewarded with only a stunning view

Instead, the stroll along the scenic coastal path rewarded us with an unexpected surprise--a one-of-a-kind outdoor art gallery. A series of large sculptures lined the look-out point walkways. These public art sculptures blended naturally with the beautiful setting.

On our walk along the coastal path, we were delighted to find an outdoor art gallery, featuring some sizable and unique pieces

With our appetites well-primed, it was time to find a restaurant with a great view and an appetizing cuisine. High above the harbor tucked off a little side street, we found the perfect candidate, The Harbor Rock Restaurant.  Our table was perfectly positioned for an awesome view of the harbor below.

Our chosen table at the Harbor Rock restaurant was in a prime location, with a great view of the harbor below

We both decided on the Chicken Korma, which was seasoned with a mouth-watering Indonesian curry. The order was beautifully presented with a side of perfectly cooked rice, Greek yogurt, and a couple of small salads. To accompany the meal, we opted for an Appletiser, our favorite South African beverage. Magnifique!

The meal at Harbor Rock was complex, presented beautifully, and really delicious!

Distractions on the N2

After lunch, we headed away from the coast on the R43 to finally join up with the N2 highway near Bot River. 

The famous Dassies Fontein road-side stop lay up ahead. 'Another shiny diversion to slow us down yet again! We had to stop for a quick perusal of its unparalleled array of goodies. 

Our route took us past Dassies Fontein, a unique little shop worth stopping for

Dassies Fontein is rather indescribable, and is better seen firsthand. People come from all over the country to for the Dassies Fontein experience.

For sale at the entrance: A South African salted fish called bokkoms, which are dried in the sun & wind and eaten after peeling off the skin

Dassies Fontein is a combination of a Route 66 general store, an old-fashioned farm stall, a small town hardware store, an antique warehouse, and a nursery.

Get the picture?  

Dassies Fontein is both odd and fascinating at the same time. Visitors spend hours scouring the rooms looking for that unique something. They keep coming back year after year!

Each room of the many at Dassies Fontein held an array of eclectic treasures

We made our way up and down the aisles, enjoying every unexpected trinket while trying not to linger too long. Before leaving, we decided to grab coffees for the road at their sit-down restaurant.

The Dassies Fontein restaurant serves South African favorites and has a coffee bar

Their menu of South African favorites, as well as the display of fresh-baked goods, looked pretty delicious. No, we just had a big lunch!! Pulling ourselves away from the temptations, we made a b-line for the car before we changed our minds...

The homemade baked goods were a tempting find that we struggled to resist

Dassies Fontein had one more surprise as we headed back to the N2. A giant wooden table and chairs complete with flowers and a tablecloth greet travelers as they approach Dassies Fontein

A small herd of donkeys grazing in the grass off to the side gave us a sense of the scale of this folk art experiment. What a strange, but interesting place! We'd be back!

This giant dining room in the field at Dassies Fontein invites visitors to pull up a chair!

Next stop was the town of Swellendam, about 76 miles/130 km away. Wheat fields covered the gently-rolling hills the whole way across to our destination--and beyond! The region around Swellendam is one of South Africa's biggest grain and canola oil producers.

Friends and family had recommended we stop at the Tredici restaurant. The Italian word literally means 13, and was purposely chosen for its meaning in baking culture--a baker's dozen.

Conveniently just off the N2, Tredeci is an all-in-one patisserie, delicatessen, boulangerie, and Italian ristorante with an artistic flair ... and it lived up to the hype!

Tredici, meaning baker's dozen in Italian, was a recommendation we were excited to try for an early dinner in Swellendam

The layout of the restaurant was strategic. Walking in, you're instantly treated to the bakery displays. No coincidence here--a great way to wake up the appetite! We climbed the stairs to find an empty table. The space was open and airy, with classic modern Italian touches. 

After perusing the menu, we ordered vegetarian pizza and decadent milkshakes all around. Tredici's beautiful presentation of the food only added to the amazing sensory experience we were about to have.

Following the tasty meal, we sampled two slices of cake--one chocolate and one carrot. The pieces were over-sized and rich! 'Good thing we only ordered two slices!

A rustic pizza, followed by two decadent pieces of cake, was shared and enjoyed by all

Our first overnight stay would be in the farming community of Riversdale, about 54 miles/91 km away.

But, first, another must-see stop, the famed Oude Post Bistro! 'Another legendary folksy stop just off the N2.

Enjoying the journey to your destination is half the fun of travel.

The Oude Post Bistro was another must-see stop on the journey to our Riversdale destination

People come from far and wide to the Oude Post Bistro to try the Roosterkoek! And just what is a Roosterkoek, you might ask? (We did!) The direct translation from Afrikaans is Grill Cake. But this is by no means cake. A more accurate description is mouth-watering dough freshly baked on the grill.

Roosterkoek literally translates to grill cake in Afrikaans, but is more accurately described as dough freshly baked on a grill

Preparing the roosterkoek from dough to cooked finished product is quite a process. An outdoor kitchen was set up outside in a nook especially reserved for this operation.

The open air design of the cooking area allowed us to watch the baker as she worked through each step with practiced precision.

First she kneaded and shaped the dough into round balls of uniform size, adding just the right amount of flour for the perfect consistency. 

The baker shaped the dough into uniform sized balls of just the right consistency

Next the balls were stretched into a more flattened shape and laid on the grill. While tending to the dough, the baker also had to add coals to the grill and keep the fire stoked. That's a lot to juggle!

In between shaping the dough, the baker had to add coals to the grill to ensure it was the right temperature for cooking

Once on the grill, the Roosterkoek didn't linger long on the intense heat before being flipped over. This was all done by hand. 'No utensils needed here!

The baker had automated her process, seamlessly moving between kneading, dough-forming, fire tending, and flipping, to produce the perfect end result ... freshly made Roosterkoek.

The fresh bread smells got our taste buds all worked up!

The baker was constantly checking the Roosterkoek, knowing when to flip each one at just the perfect moment

Load after load of Roosterkoek made their way over to the retail counter. As they arrived, people were already lined up for the fresh delivery.

Oude Post keeps track of the Roosterkoek sales every day. A board with all the sales records stands proudly in the middle of the store. A record 2,091 Roosterkoek were sold on a single day that previous September! 

The Oude Post Bistro sells so many roosterkoeks, they have a board to keep track of their sales records

The warm breads are opened like pita pockets and filled with your choice of egg, cheese, bacon, sausage, chicken, and/or vegetables.

Still full after our Tredici feast, we forced ourselves to settle on sharing a standard bacon, egg, and cheese. After watching the whole cooking process, we just had to sample one for ourselves! We also ordered several more plain Roosterkoeks to take with us on the road.

Once the roosterkoek is cooked, it is stuffed with your choice of fillings, like this one with bacon, egg, and cheese

As we headed back into the parking lot, we noticed that Oude Post Bistro also had a petting zoo in a lush and grassy fenced-in field across the parking lot.. Mountain tortoises, deer, and plenty of noisy goats coexisted quite peacefully!

A light rain began to fall as we stood there enjoying the interactions. Most of the animals retreated to their covered shelters, except for the tortoises.  They were more than happy to enjoy nature's shower.

What a great stop off. Everyone should get to experience Oude Post Bistro!

The goats and tortoises were really close (literally!) and coexisted quite peacefully at the little petting zoo

Riversdale Farm Experience

Continuing up the N2 past Heidelberg, we picked up the pace as we headed to Riversdale.

Rainman's cousins, Gerhard and Betty, had graciously invited us to spend the weekend on their farm. It was over 50 years since he had been there as a child. This was an exciting re-visit and reunion!

As we approached Riversdale, we saw several deer and ostrich farms. Ostrich farming has some history in the area, but deer farming is growing in popularity with the health-conscious community.

Ostrich farming has history in the Riversdale area

Domesticated deer farming allows farmers to get production from smaller, more marginal tracts of land. Deer eat less, grow faster, and are capable of breeding for a longer period than cattle. Like ostrich, deer meat is quite lean and high in protein.

The Riversdale farming community has a proud history. Today, the area is known for growing wheat, wildflowers, thatching reeds, and honey bush (used for tea). The open ranges are ideal for raising sheep and cattle. 

Riversdale fynbos flowers are legendary in the winter months, drawing visitors from far and wide.

The area fynbos and the Langeberg Mountains came into view as we approached Riversdale

The base of the Langeberg Mountains came into view as we reached Riversdale. The iconic Sleeping Beauty Mountain peak stands as a guardian for all travelers to the area.

After passing through the town of Riversdale, we left the smooth N2 highway and took a well-used dirt road toward the coast. 

We left the main highway and headed onto a well used dirt road towards the Riversdale farm

Our cousins focus mainly on grain production, but also farm sheep, ostrich, and thatching reeds. Farming cycles are highly dependent on the rains in any given season.

More recently, an interesting strategy has emerged for their sheep farming. Entrepreneurs have begun to provide starter sheep herds for smaller farms on a season-by-season basis.

This new opportunity is a win-win for the entrepreneur and for the farmer. The entrepreneur gets the original herd back at the end of the season, plus a guaranteed number of off-spring.

A new strategy has emerged, with entrepreneurs providing starter herds for farmers in exchange for a share of the offspring

The farmer, if successful, retains the excess herd after breeding, and gets to sell the fattened lambs at the going market rate. Farmers use this process to build their own long-term herds.

Gerhard and Betty currently have a herd of about 300 sheep and have a goal to increase this base to 1,500 sheep over the next several years.

Gerhard and Betty hope to build their herd from about 300 to 1,500 over the next few years

Driving up to the farmhouse, we were greeted by our cousins and immediately felt welcome.

The farmhouse was straight out of an episode of Little House on the Prairie--a classic farmhouse, but with modern WiFi and Netflix!

That first evening was spent catching up and participating in the many braai (BBQ) rituals that are a staple in South Africa. We had three different kinds of meat that night--lamb, beef, and venison. The hit of the braai had to be the tasty beef-and-venison sausage cooked to perfection on the open coal fire pit.

We didn't forget to share our Roosterkoek bounty.

Getting the coals ready for the night's braai on the indoor grill

The next day was spent revisiting all the old favorite spots on the surrounding farms.

We even went on a ride-along as our cousin tended to the sheep, with his two-year old grandson lending a very sweet helping hand.

Gerhard puts out feed that supplements the sheep herd's grass diet, with some help from a future farmer

Another of our cousins, Reinhard, invited us for a sundowner at his personal favorite spot on his nearby farm. The only way to get there was by rugged 4 x 4 vehicles!

About ten adults and two small children piled into the trucks, or "bakies" as they're called in South Africa. We squeezed in next to the coolers, blankets, and gear packed for the excursion. It was quite a rocky ride as we trekked along the barely visible vehicle tracks.

We piled into two 4x4 vehicles for the bumpy ride through the fynbos

Arriving at the lookout, we found ourselves high up on a ridge overlooking the valley between the farming community and the town of Riversdale. In the distance, we could see the pronounced outline of Sleeping Beauty Mountain.

Once on the summit, we were treated to Reinhard's amazing views and sundowner drinks

The show was about to start as the sun lowered in the distance. They had clearly done this before. Blankets and chairs were quickly laid out for the perfect set-up! Each of us was handed a sundowner drink infused with fresh berries.

The timing couldn't have been any better! The colors, and the panoramic views, were breathtaking! Every minute or so, we were treated to an even better color palette. Wow, now that was living in the moment!

The painted sky from the summit was a natural masterpiece as the sun went down

Reinhard often comes up to this lookout with close friends or by himself. He feels strongly that places like this need to be preserved in their natural state. One could see why he was so passionately committed to conservation. Every one of us felt blessed to have experienced such an exceptional slice of heaven.

Back at the farmhouse, the braai ritual began again in earnest! The Saturday night braai would be much bigger than the previous night. 'More meat ... and more people!

This braai even included a delicious pooitjie.

Gerhard's well used pooitjie pot was the star of the evening's braai

A pooitjie is a three-legged caste iron bush pot used to slow-cook massive stews for hours on end.

Our pooitjie was filled with freshly-slaughtered lamb, potatoes, carrots, onions, and all kinds of other vegetables. The high heat breaks everything down into a very tasty stew-like mix. We loved it!

The braai was a huge success!

After a good night's rest, we drove to the small fishing village and resort town of Still Bay. Rainman spent many childhood summers here, so there was a lot of reminiscing.

We had a little ice cream to celebrate the days of childhood remembered

Still Bay originally started as a favorite fishing spot for the local farmers. The area later developed into a summer get-away. In those days it was a closely guarded secret. But that secret is out!

Still Bay has now become a major holiday attraction for visitors from all over the country!

The secret is out, and Still Bay is now a popular holiday getaway

More recently, the Cape Whale Route was expanded to include Still Bay. Thousands of visitors flock to the area every July through December to catch a glimpse the whales breeding in the bay. 

The best viewing area is from the high point just above the harbor.

Still Bay has a long white sandy beach that stretches all the way to the Goukou River Estuary. Wind surfing, kite surfing, kayaking, and waterskiing, are popular in the lagoon near the entrance to the ocean. 

The long white sand beach at Still Bay leads all the way to an estuary, and the nearby lagoon is popular with sports enthusiasts

It was time to all go our separate ways. With lots of hugs and tears, we sadly said our goodbyes to Gerhard and Bettie.  It was time to continue our Garden Route quest!

What a fantastic weekend. Old memories were rehashed and new memories were made. We would be back!

We said our goodbyes to Gerhard and Betty, with memories of a special reunion weekend

Mossel Bay to George

Back on the N2, we set our GPS for Mossel Bay--about 50 miles/85 km away.

The official Garden Route begins in Mossel Bay. But, in our opinion, the real Garden Route actually starts somewhere between Riversdale and Albertinia.

Mossel Bay is steeped in South African maritime history. Interestingly, the village was the original postal exchange for Portuguese sailors making their way around the Cape of Good Hope to the East Indies. 

Legend has it that this practice started in 1500 when Pero de Ataide was stranded after losing most of his fleet in a devastating storm. Pero wrote up a report and placed it in an old shoe hung in a Milkwood tree. The report was found the following year by explorer Joao da Nova.

The tree was used as a postal exchange for many decades thereafter. Tourists can still visit the same Milkwood tree today at the Dias Museum Complex. 

The museum marks one of the few spots where Bartolomeu Dias set foot in Southern Africa during his historic voyage. Dias was the first European to round the Cape of Good Hope (1488). A replica of his ship, The Caravel, can also be seen in the complex.

Other than the obvious historical attraction, Mossel Bay has become quite a hot spot for all kinds of ocean excursions. Whale watching, wreck-diving trips, shark-cage experiences, and deep-sea fishing are hugely popular here.

Unfortunately, our aggressive Garden Route itinerary did not allow much time in Mossel Bay. An overnight would have been ideal.

Various ocean excursions launch from the well-developed docking area in Mossel Bay

From Mossel Bay, we set our sights on getting to George for the night, another 24 miles/38 km. 

Along the way, we passed two more beautiful small sea-side towns, Klein Brak River and Groot Brak River. The eco-systems around these communities are well known for the diversity of bird species they attract. Needless to say, bird watching is popular in the area.

There is no doubt that we are on the Garden Route now! The unspoiled and natural beauty of the area is mesmerizing as we drive.

The natural and unspoiled ecosystem of the Klein Brak River area is home to a rich diversity of life

Just before George, we pass Herold's Bay, a small rocky cove beautifully carved out of the shoreline. One can see why Ernie Els has his collection of golf courses between here and George.

The Outbaai Golf Estate course has been rated as one of the most beautifully designed golfing locations in the world! 'A bucket list course for golfers!

Continuing along the N2, we head inland a few miles. George is nestled in the lowlands just below the magnificent Outeniqua Mountains. This picturesque setting is a great base for exploring the best parts of the Garden Route.

The majestic Outeniqua Mountains rise dramatically above George

George has a well-developed airport, plenty of good hotels, conference facilities, and great access to about 10 world-class golf courses.

The Outeniqua Transport Museum is a favorite with stream train enthusiasts. The Garden Route Botanical Garden also draws thousands each year to its well designed trails through the Fynbos.

Exhausted, we settle in for a well-deserved rest at an AirBnB, and begin planning our final Garden Route stretch between the Wilderness area and Knysna.

Wilderness & Goukamma Experience

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we head back toward the coast and one of the most spectacular drives we've ever seen. The magic starts near the small coastal town of Wilderness.

The 14 mile/23 km drive between Wilderness and Sedgefield is impossible to describe, it must be experienced! This just had to be the heart and soul of the Garden Route. We couldn't imagine a better segment of the route.

We stopped at an overlook along the Wilderness drive to admire the the coastal view and some colorful local artwork

The Wilderness-Sedgefield area has an impressive lagoon ecosystem, a stunning coastal highway, long stretches of sandy beaches, primal forests, natures reserves, lakes, and dramatic mountains.

Drives like this remind us that our natural habitats need to be protected for future generations! Attempting to capture this beauty in photographs falls far short of the actual experience.

For those wanting to get closer to nature, the area offers tremendous outdoor opportunities. Activities include hiking, camping, para-gliding, bird watching, whale watching, horse riding, fishing, and kayaking. 'Something  for everyone!

After the Wilderness-Sedgefield corridor, we entered the Goukamma Nature Reserve and Marine Protected Area. This part of the drive covers the route between Sedgefield and Buffels Bay.

Goukamma is a nature reserve and marine protected area, managed by its government custodian CapeNature

The Goukamma Nature Reserve has two entrances, one past Sedgfield and another near the small seaside town of Buffels Bay.

For the first part of our drive, we had wonderful views of Lake Pleasant. This is the only fresh water lake in the area. Goukamma's four other lakes are all impacted by tidal flows from the ocean.

Arriving in Buffels Bay, we could see why this was the preferred jumping off point for a Goukamma adventure. Campsites lined the ocean front and the Goukamma River allowed canoes and paddlers easy access into the interior of the reserve.

Buffels Bay is a busy area for all kinds of adventurers

The Goukamma Protected Marine Area extends about 4 km offshore, all the way to a protected fossilized dune. This huge (12 km long) natural reef-like structure is a natural breeding ground and teems with sea life. 

Several hiking trails are available throughout the reserve, including:

  • Cape Clawless Trail
  • Porcupine Trail
  • Bush Pig Trail
  • Galjoen Trail
  • Buffels Bay Trail

Buffels Bay juts out into the ocean on a small peninsula. The setting was idyllic with a beautiful sandy beach on one side and a very rugged rocky flank on the other.  Magic! 

Garden Route

Buffelsbaii juts out into the ocean on a small peninsula, and is almost entirely surrounded by ocean

Campers and RVs were crammed into every available space. According to locals, pensioners (or retirees) also love to spend the cheap off-season at this location. With its dramatic and striking setting, who can blame them?

Our next stop would be the very popular town of Knysna--about 10 km away.

Knysna, the Jewel of the Garden Route

When the Garden Route is mentioned, most South Africans immediately suggest a visit to Knysna, also known as The Jewel of the Garden Route.

The town is built along the shores of the Knysna Lagoon--which isn't actually a classic lagoon, but rather an estuary.

Garden Route

Knysna is built on the shore of the Knysna Lagoon, which is actually an estuary

Knysna is regularly voted Town of the Year in South Africa. More impressively, Trip Advisor has even rated Knysna one of the Top 100 Destinations in the World. Can you say cool vibe?

Knysna, here we come! 

The Knysna waterfront is one of the reasons the town has been named a Top 100 destinations in the world

Getting closer to Knysna, we pass through the Seven Passes Scenic Drive and get our first glimpses of the Knysna Lagoon. 

As we look across the lagoon, the large waterway narrows between two dramatic sandstone promontories as it meets the Indian Ocean. This narrowing is appropriately called The Heads.

Arriving in Knysna, we head for the trendy marina area.

The marina is the launching point for all kinds of water adventures, including para-sailing, kayaking, kite-surfing, boating, fishing, and lagoon charters. Paddling out to explore the man-made islands around Thesen Island has become a popular kayaking excursion.

The Knysna Marina is a scenic spot for a drink, or to book an adventure excursion

The waterfront is the perfect place to just hang out and get a sense of the town's hip vibe. They have great restaurants, art galleries, antique shops, arts & crafts shops, and plenty of hotels. 

The culinary scene is widely held to be one of the best collections of restaurants in the country. Knysna is a Foodie paradise! If only we had more time on this trip ...

Knysna is a big draw with artists from a variety of backgrounds. Public art is important here, and the galleries are filled with an eclectic mix of talent.

Surprisingly, the town is also a major center for furniture crafters. Knysna and George are surrounded by evergreen trees. Artisan furniture makers use this timber to creatively fashion beautiful one-of-a-kind pieces. Art collectors, and people looking for unique furniture pieces, are regular visitors to Knysna.

We loved going from store to store looking at all the creative furniture!

The artisan furniture industry is well developed in Knysna and a big part of the local economy

The Pezula Championship Golf Course is a must if you're into scenic golf courses. This spectacular course was built on the Knysna cliffs with out-of-this-world views of the Knysna Lagoon and the Indian Ocean! Who cares about the score!?

For the best possible sunset views, we drove up to the cliffs on the eastern side of The Heads. Wow! The lagoon ... the ocean ... The Heads ... the distant Outeniqua Mountains ... the birds! The scenes are still etched in our memories!

Sadly, the time had come to leave Knysna and head inland for an entirely different experience.

Our Uniondale Bonus!

 Heading away from the Garden Route, we had one more surprise experience as we headed back home.

Mauricio's life-long friends in Uniondale had graciously invited us to stay the night in their very interesting off-the-grid home. The invitation was a unique opportunity to get a peek into rural life in the Little Karoo.

Our roadtrip continued to the north on Route 339.

Uniondale gave us the opportunity to experience rural life in the Little Karoo, which is surprisingly lush and green

Although Uniondale is only about 54 miles/86 km) from the ocean and the luscious Garden Route, it is still classified as part of the semi-arid Little Karoo zone.

Uniondale was by no means arid, with an abundance of green flora, droves of bird species, and plentiful diverse fauna. The surrounding area is considered part of the large Gouritz Cluster Biosphere Reserve--a recognized UNESCO Biosphere.

Bird watching is a must! Members from one of the Garden Route birding clubs recently spent five days cataloguing the birds in the Uniondale area. They were performing a census for the SABAP2 Atlas Project. The group reported 150 bird species over the period, including a rare sighting of a Red Phalarope.

The Garden Route birding clubs reported a rare sighting of the Red Phalarope

As we drove up the rugged dirt road to our hosts' home, we knew immediately that they meant OFF THE GRID! Somehow they had managed to carve out a special place without disturbing nature's bounty. Can you say RUSTIC?

Our hosts had chosen a truly off-the-grid location to call home

Our hosts greeted us with genuine warmth, with the kind of sincerity that only comes from years of appreciating the struggles of natural survival. 

The orientation to their home was fascinating. They had carefully adapted to their surroundings and the available natural resources:

  • A solar system was rigged to satisfy all electrical needs
  • A rain-collection and storage system supplied water
  • A wrap-around observation deck gave them a front-row seat on their natural setting

The view from the deck was a vast expanse of the natural environment in their backyard

A short walk across the way from their home, our hosts also helped to run the local pub, Kbuku Pub & Grill. Sitting out at the back tables, patrons have the perfect panoramic view of the surrounding mountains.

The pub's outdoor seating area gives patrons a peaceful and scenic setting for having a drink

The pub was a great place to relax and have a refreshing beverage after our travels. The decor was interesting and eclectic! A few of the locals were also enjoying the sunset as they slowly sipped their drinks and caught each other up on the happenings of the day. 

All was right with the world!

The Kbuku Pub was filled with interesting things to see, and stories to tell

After sunset, we walked back over to our hosts' off-grid home. There wasn't a lot of light in the area and everything was so quiet. Nature was in control here!

Once back at the homestead, we oriented to our sleeping arrangements. Mauricio would be sleeping in a camper outside. We were given a prime spot in one of the inside bedrooms!

A focal point of the home featured a beautifully-crafted artisan bar designed and built by our hosts. Even though they had chosen to live off grid, they never lost sight of the important creature comforts. It felt like we were on an old movie set!

The home-built bar in their living room rivaled any professional drinking establishment

'Time for a delicious homemade dinner of tender lamb cooked in a rich tomato sauce, served over rice or mashed potato. Our appetites were ready for a home-cooked meal. Dinner was served on the outside deck, adding to this special meal.

The nearby Kamanassie and Kouga Mountains were surreal in the fading light! As the darkness set in, the sky above us filled with stars. The lack of light pollution made for a powerful show in the sky.

As evening approached, shadows began to settle on the mountains

Our hosts shared they favorite local stories as we lingered on the veranda. The Uniondale Ghost legend was by far the most interesting tale.

According to the locals, there have been multiple sightings of a mysterious young female hitchhiker. These reports say the traveler disappears once she secures a ride. The hitcher ghost has been linked to a young woman killed in a car accident back in 1968. Of course, the legend has grown over the years ...

But the most unsettling story was saved for the end of the evening--just before bedtime.

Our hosts apparently had a close encounter with a Cape Cobra in this very house. After an initial sighting in the kitchen, the Cobra disappeared into the house for a whole week before being spotted again, and removed.

We checked under the bed that night just to be safe! Happily, there were no encounters that night!

Our hosts once encountered a deadly Cape Cobra in their house

After a very early breakfast the next morning, we bid our new friends farewell. The Uniondale experience had been well worth the detour!

Our extended Garden Route adventure was at an end, but our memories would be with us forever. 

Hopefully, you'll find your way to the Garden Route someday. We would recommend at least 10 days to cover the same route we completed in just 6 days.

May your journey be filled with rich experiences every day. We hope to see you out there some time!


Up Next: The Great Route 62 Roadtrip in South Africa 

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