How to Roadtrip Kalk Bay and Hout Bay

QUICK VIEW:
Kalk Bay and Hout Bay are key destinations on a roadtrip across the Cape Peninsula. Kalk Bay has been described as one of the "twelve coolest neighborhoods in the world.” Hout Bay’s Mariner’s Wharf and offshore seal excursions are must add-ons.

At Hacking the Road, we are dedicated to finding ways to help people live a Better Life ... on the Road! We are full-time travelers and experience seekers, and we want to share our journey with you. We believe that travel opens hearts and minds, and makes the world a better place. Join us as we explore each new destination.

We are Rainman and Tricia ... and we are the Road Hackers! As Road Hackers, we specialize in building itineraries that allow us to discover diamonds in the rough all over the world.

These amazing places are usually well known to domestic travelers, but tend to be overlooked by many international tourists. Our Western Cape itinerary was no exception, yielding several gems!

Kalk Bay and Hout Bay fit this category, and are often left off international itineraries. Most of these visitors tend to focus on Cape Town's Big Six attractions.

Kalk Bay and Hout Bay may be diamonds in the rough, but they shine brightly upon closer inspection. Both of these coastal beauties are well worth including on any Cape Town itinerary.

As recently as 2018, Kalk Bay was described as one of the "twelve coolest neighborhoods in the world."

Hout Bay has its own charming waterfront, and, of course, the world famous Seal Island!

Researching our Kalk Bay - Hout Bay itinerary revealed a long list of very interesting experiences and sites:

 ... One of Forbes 12 Coolest Neighborhoods  ... Fishing Villages ... Colorful Storefronts ... Quaint Restaurants and Cafes ...  The Brass Bell & Cape to Cuba Restaurants ... Art Galleries ...  ... Bric-a-Brac Shops ... Cape Fur Seals ... Mariner's Wharf ... Bay Harbour Market ... Seal Island

Join us as we share why Kalk Bay and Hout Bay should be included in your Cape Town itineray.

South Africa's Cape Peninsula is blessed with some of the best coastal scenery in the world. 

Kalk Bay and Hout Bay lie on opposite sides of the peninsula, and both have their own very special views of the Atlantic Ocean.

A Kalk Bay - Hout Bay visit is the perfect day-trip from Cape Town.

Our plan was to start with a delicious breakfast in Kalk Bay, followed by some leisurely perusing of the touristy sights along the shoreline.

Next up would be Hout Bay, and, of course, our excursion to Seal Island. 

As luck would have it, our brother-in-law, Mauricio, was available, and generously volunteered to be our guide and chauffeur for the day! What a treat for us!

Our home base was in Gordon's Bay, so we had a bit of extra driving along the N2 (31 miles/50 km further).

Once in Cape Town, we headed south on the M3 highway. As we drove, Table Mountain lay before us. That view never gets old!

Kalk Bay lies due south of Table Mountain, about a 50-minute drive (19 miles/31 km) from the center of Cape Town.

Skirting Table Mountain National Park, we were able to stay on the M3 all the way to Westlake, passing through Rondebosch, Claremont, Kenilworth, Wynberg, Constantia, Plumstead, and Bergvliet. 

From Westlake, we connected with the M4 all the way to Muizenberg Beach. The final leg of the drive (2.5 miles/4 km) was by far the most scenic section.

Close to Kalk Bay, we noticed that the rail line runs all along the waterfront. We learned that visitors can catch the train from Cape Town central station all the way to Simon's Town, passing through Kalk Bay on the way.

As we drove along the main drag, it was easy to see why Kalk Bay was designated one of Forbes' ... 12 coolest neighborhoods in the world.

We were excited to start our day in picturesque Kalk Bay!

Kalk Bay gets its name from the Afrikaans and Dutch word for lime, kalk. The area has massive deposits of mussel shells, which were often burned by earlier settlers to create lime for construction.

Kalk Bay's early history is is the story of South Africa in some ways. This small village village was first established in the late 1600s. Records appear to support the claim that most of the early inhabitants were British slaves from Indonesia, Bengal, and Ceylon (Sri Lanka).

Kalk Bay's population increased significantly as the whaling industry took off in the 19th Century. A number of Filipino fisherman settled in the village after 1850. The area became quite attractive to fishermen from all over the colony. 

The Cape Town railway line was extended to Kalk Bay by 1883, greatly increasing access to the area.

Kalk Bay's modern economy depends heavily on tourism. Beyond the obvious waterfront development, Kalk Bay is also well known in surfing circles for its Kalk Bay Reef.

The harbor walls we see today were first built in 1913.

The heart of Kalk Bay village is lined with clothing boutiques, cozy restaurants and cafes, quirky curio stores, antique hide-outs, and eclectic art studios.

There was just so much to browse, we could easily have spent the day wandering through all these interesting Kalk Bay offerings. But, ... we had our priorities ... right? First breakfast!

Our cafe, like most in Kalk Bay, was right on the main street, so we had a front-row seat for people-watching.

Sunday was the perfect day to be in Kalk Bay!

As we were waiting for our orders to arrive, we swapped stories with our neighbors at the next table. It turns out that they were a couple of bikers from Germany who were visiting with South African friends. Kalk Bay is one of the big Sunday morning stops for the many bike clubs in the area.

The smell of freshly-ground coffee, and bacon on the griddle, grew stronger as the cafe began to fill. We were not disappointed when our orders arrived! Everything was delicious. Coffee refills, please!

Refueled by our splendid breakfast, we were ready to start exploring.

The focal point of Main Road is the old Kalk Bay Trading Post. It looked like a prop straight out of Raiders of the Lost Ark, or a scene stolen from Livingston's travels in Africa.

We leisurely strolled though all the storefronts, boutiques, and art showcases, drinking in the rich vibe of this really cool place.

Vendors selling touristy African artisan products were tastefully selling their wares along the sidewalks. Vivid flower displays added a colorful thread to this vibrant tapestry.

Making sure to observe every little side street as we walked the main drag, we were pulled into an intriguing alley. The sign at its entrance read in part, "A walk up Petticoat Lane will take you down Memory Lane...." Lined with murals, cleverly crafted artisan sculptures, the Sweet 'Ol Jester, and the Ink Box Gallery artwork showcase, we studied every odd and intriguing piece with delight. That one alley was a world unto itself!

Further up on a different side street, we found a richly decorated factory outlet featuring brightly colored South African textiles and leatherworks. Another notable store was a very unique second-hand and antique shop that specialized in artifacts from a bygone South African era. Several of these items brought back some long-forgotten childhood memories! 

Back to the main road and the seafront side of the road, we arrived at the famous Brass Bell Restaurants & Pubs. The complex boasts nine different restaurants and event spaces. The seafood menus are said to be superb, with a world-class sushi chef at the newly created Seaweed & Salt tapas bar. The network offers several other venues, each with their own special menu--and view. A unique dinner restaurant theater was also recently added.

The entrance to the Brass Bell complex is through an underground walkway. As we descended into the tunnel that leads to the interior, we heard upbeat music and were delighted to see a duo of musicians called Cape Minstrels (Kaapse Klopse), one strumming a banjo, the other a guitar. What fun! The subway had great acoustics, so we stopped to enjoy the unexpected festivity. 

As we emerged from the tunnel and headed upstairs, we were literally on the ocean! The Brass Bell Restaurants & Pubs are situated right next to a couple of man-made tidal pools, and have some of the best sea views in Kalk Bay that are nicely framed by the small harbor. Now we understood why The Brass Bell is famous, and such a hot item on most Kalk Bay tourist itineraries!

Versions of the lower floor have been in place for over a hundred years. Originally, this subjacent area was used as a changing station for bathers as they visited Kalk Bay. By 1939, the local City Council added a second floor and set up a European Pavilion Tea Room in an effort to promote tourism. Today, the Pavilion area is encased in a glass gazebo with inspiring panoramic views of False Bay!

Sitting on the decks of the Brass Bell, we had a front-row seat watching wave after wave crash into the cement breakwater barriers of the tidal pools. We could only imagine what this must be like when the surf runs high. Parts of the Brass Bell have been destroyed several times by massive rogue waves generated by the big storms that often hit the Cape.

One of the best seating areas is on the Oyster Deck, which is an open-air outdoor space. From here, we had a great view of the famous Kalk Bay Reef. Surfers love this spot for its amazing barrel-shaped waves.

Moving on, we headed to another must-see Kalk Bay restaurant, Cape to Cuba. This restaurant was made for Pinterest! Starting with the decor at the entrance, the beach-feel of the tables and chairs in the soft beach sand, and the turquoise color pallet distributed tastefully around the place, all the way to the Hemingway Bar, Cuban flags and pictures of Che Guevara, it was hard to decide where to point our cameras. The restaurant setting has even been used as a backdrop for fashion shoots!

This place is obviously unique, with a very trendy and interesting vibe! Cape to Cuba is a self-styled Cuban Smoke House.  They even have live music on Sundays to add to this cool atmosphere. Add to that the fantastic views, the relaxed and colorful Caribbean furnishings, and the outside garden adornments, this establishment is one of the Cape Town area's best kept secrets.

So we're in a Cuban restaurant, right? Their sign said they're famous for their cocktails... We figured that meant we just had to try their Cuba Libre cocktail, and some tasty cuban coffee for the teetotaler. With the morning's breakfast hours behind us, we also opted for a little something from their menu. Our table chose a small platter of three Cuban breads presented with salsa and lime mayo, a chicken lime soup served with avocado and Cuban bread, and jalapeño poppers. Delicious by consensus! 

With our stimulating Kalk Bay morning behind us, we headed further down the coast past Fishhoek, and then crossed the Cape Peninsula using the M6 all the way to Hout Bay. Our next adventure was about to begin!

Crossing the Cape Peninsula, Hout Bay village is located in a valley surrounded by mountains on all sides, with the Atlantic Ocean opening up to the south. As we drove into the valley, we headed down to the fisheries and harbor area at picturesque Mariner's Wharf.

Hout Bay was actually named by Jan van Riebeeck, the DEIC leader who established the first replenishment station at the Cape. "Hout" means wood in dutch and Afrikaans. Van Riebeeck needed a lot of wood to build his fortifications and barrier fences. In those days, the area had some of the finest forests in the region--hence the name.

Present-day Hout Bay was originally established as a fishing village in 1867. The Trautmanns and Dormans, two long-term Hout Bay families, played a considerable role in making the village a major player in South African fisheries. Several significant fishery operations are still active in Hout Bay today.

Beyond fisheries, Hout Bay is also known for two other big tourist attractions. The first is the famous big wave surfing spot at Dungeons.

In the past, Red Bull sponsored the Red Bull Big Wave Africa event at Dungeons. While the event is no longer active, surfers still continue their pursuit of the Big Wave, with some swells reaching heights of up to 47ft/14.3m! Since Dungeons is not visible from the shore, local boat operators offer excursions for a closer look at these monster waves.

As we arrived at Mariner's Wharf, we were met by a giant walrus-like creature--a Cape Fur Seal! It seems this fellow is the resident greeter to visitors arriving for a look around. 

Mariner's Wharf is a sprawling complex with everything any tourist would want in one area, including restaurants, excursion operators, a fresh fish market, a maritime antique shop, and fun entertainment.

We once again saw a troupe of Kaapse Klopse performing for the tourists. This time, it was a much bigger group in colorful costume. The energy was high and full of spirit! It was such an uplifting experience to see this artistic display live and in person. It felt like Carnival-meets-Cape Town! 

The Kaapse Klopse have a rich history in South Africa. Their performance art is very uniquely a Cape Town cultural phenomenon. The first Klopse, meaning clubs or troupes, were formed in 1887. The groups were organized to celebrate Second New Year on January 2nd, which was a widely recognized day off for the servants of Cape Town. 

The celebration started in the heart of Cape Town in the Bo Kaap district, immediately adjacent to the Cape Town Business District. Bo Kaap had a rich mix of Malaysian, Indian, Sri Lankan, Indonesian, and Madagascan residents that participated in the celebrations. 

The Second New Year tradition is as strong as ever today. More than 13,000 Kaapse Klopse gather in Cape Town on New Years Eve for a massive carnival--officially known as the Cape Town Minstrel Carnival. Thousands of domestic and international tourists line the streets to get a glimpse of these festivities.

Hout Bay's second big tourist attraction is Duiker Island, about 1 km off the coast. The island is quite small in size, at about 255 ft/77 m by 312 ft/95 m. Though commonly referred to as Seal Island, that is just a local nickname. There is an officially-named Seal Island in False Bay, located quite a distance away. Duiker Island is also home to quite a lively bird population, with at least 20 different varieties.

Tickets in hand for our Duiker Island excursion, we boarded the boat. As we approached, it was quite a sight to see! There were literally hundreds of Cape Fur Seals packed on a very small granite outcrop in the middle of the ocean. No wonder this special spot has earned its nickname.

Apparently, the waters are too cold for sharks. We were reminded of the Shark Week documentaries showing Great White Sharks attacking Cape Fur Seals off Seal Island. This meant the crew we were observing were not in danger, though the same could not be said for the actual Seal Island group many miles away further out in False Bay. 

Because sharks don't frequent this area, snorkeling with the seals is allowed on some excursions. However, the seas were much too rough that day for good visibility, so it wasn't an option for us.

The Cape Fur Seal is the biggest of the nine seal species. This breed is actually closely related to the sea lion with its external ears. 

As we headed back to Mariner's Wharf, we were treated to an amazing view of the mountains that surround Hout Bay and the Cape Peninsula. The steep mountainside seemed to drop straight into the ocean as it reached the bay.

Once in the car, we relived yet another one-of-a-kind experience provided by Mother Nature's creatures. We were all pretty tired driving home, but it was a good kind of exhaustion. Every ounce of energy spent was well worth it!

For a more comprehensive blog on our tour of the Western Cape, please check out Great Western Cape Itinerary In South Africa. 

Up Next: Fascinating History, a Visit to South Africa's Cape Point and Robben Island