Best Itinerary for South Africa’s Elgin Valley and Caledon

QUICK VIEW:
Elgin Valley and Caledon, featuring:
Elgin Railway Market
Ceres Rail Excursion
Almenkerk Wine Estate
Caledon Hotel & Spa

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Foreign travelers visiting South Africa's Western Cape usually don't venture too far beyond the coastal escarpment. Unfortunately, the Elgin Valley and Caledon fall just beyond this zone, and are often overlooked.

Surprisingly, the Elgin Valley is only about 40 miles from Cape Town. Caledon is about 70 miles away.

This blog hopes to make the case for including the Elgin Valley and Caledon in your next Western Cape itinerary. The Road Hackers certainly enjoyed the experience!

Join us as we follow our favorite itinerary through some of the major attractions.

The Elgin Valley is fast becoming a go-to destination in the Western Cape. We'd been coming to the Cape for many years, and it seemed that every time we returned, the Elgin area was featured more and more in the tourism literature.

We decided it was finally time to explore this increasingly popular destination to see for ourselves.

In the distant past, the big draw to this area was the Appletiser factory outlet and apple picking. Appletiser is a sparkling fruit juice made by blending fruit juice with carbonated water. Appetizer was founded in 1966 in the ElginValley, and is primarily sold in its home market of South Africa.

This local drink favorite contains no added sugar or colourants, so it's like having a healthy soda! Besides apple, other flavors include white or red grape, and pear. We always look forward to having this local treat when visiting South Africa.

We were about to discover that the Elgin Valley has many more interesting layers than we ever imagined.

The main community is in Grabouw, but most of the character and vibe of the Valley can be found scattered across the 140 square miles of the Elgin Basin. The Valley is surrounded on all sides by the substantial mountain slopes of the Hottentots Holland, Groenland, and Kogelberg Mountains.

The Elgin Valley is only 43 miles/70 km from Cape Town, but there is no actual town called Elgin. The Valley supports a number of smaller farming communities that are sustained by incredibly successful apple, pear, and grape farms in the area.

The first European settlers started arriving in the Valley as early as the late 1600s. At the time, the fertile area was used as pastoral land by the local Khoikhoi farmers. It wasn't until much later that the first deciduous trees and vineyards arrived in Elgin.

In 1898, Sir Antonie Viljoen bought the Oak Valley Estate and started planting apple and pear trees. The Oak Valley farm hands nurtured and groomed the orchards that eventually became the foundation of the most successful deciduous fruit farming areas in the world.

Today, the Elgin Valley produces about 60% of South African apple production, and almost half of this crop is exported. The Valley is also known for growing pears, cut flowers, and, increasingly, for its great vineyards.

As we arrived at the Elgin Railway Market, this charming place reminded us of some of the boutique farmers' markets in Stellenbosch and the Helderberg area. Modern art sculptures were scattered throughout the property, giving it an organic artsy vibe.

Our senses weren't quite ready for what we found as we entered the huge market building.

Coming in from the tranquility of the surrounding farm, it was as though we had been transported to another world--a cross between the artisan vibe of Napa Valley and the uniquely South African vibe of Cape Town's Groot Constantia Estate!

The impressive Elgin Railway Market building has a decided steam punk, art deco feel. The over-sized metal fans, the hold-over concrete tapered columns of a bygone era, and the carefully crafted box gutters, all ooze with industrial character. 

The area around the market has an interesting history of its own. The Molteno family bought the Glen Elgin farm in 1903, and eventually developed a significant fruit farm network that almost covered the entire valley.

The family later left their large land holdings to a trust that was to manage the properties in the interest of the farm laborers and the Elgin Valley inhabitants.

The area was later used as a prisoner of war camp for Italian prisoners in the 1940s. These prisoners actually helped to build the old apple warehouse that became the artsy Elgin Railway Market of today!

As we walked through the halls of the market, we couldn't help but feel the nostalgia of those early farming days continuing to live in this building. It was so wonderful to see how nicely this piece of history had been preserved for future generations! We could have spent hours looking around.  

The Elgin Railway Market has so much to offer its visitors. Here's a sampling of the some of the more interesting food concessions at the market:

... and that's just a few of their delicious foods. Many of the vendors had samples to try before purchase. Let's just say, we did a good job of sampling!

A number of artisan jewelry, hand-made leather, and creative woodwork vendors had some really unique and interesting wares for sale. As we were making our way through the exhibition, we could hear live music starting downstairs ... the perfect accompaniment!

The upstairs loft area is definitely a must-see and worth the climb. A pasta and pizza kitchen is located at the top of the stairs, with a large dining area off to the side. The family-style tables sit in front of large sunny windows, inviting patrons to linger and socialize.

Also found on the upper floor are quite a few upscale clothing and jewelry stores. Some are housed in their own glassed-in enclosure, adding to the charm of the space. Walking along this second floor and looking down on the one below gave an interesting perspective of the market as a whole. 

One of the biggest attractions at the market is the arrival of the Ceres Rail Company steam locomotive. We could tell something special was about to happen. The activity level and general buzz at the market seemed to pick up a few notches close to the time of its arrival.

Visitors have two possible viewing areas to see this event. The Market has a very convenient observation deck just above the loft area. But, in our opinion, the best way to see this exciting event is to go out on the old railway platform.

There's nothing like seeing the power and brilliant engineering of a full-sized locomotive up close and personal! We weren't about to miss that experience...

The Ceres Railway Company runs a day-trip locomotive excursion from Cape Town to the Elgin Railway Market once every two weeks (check their website for dates). The trains leave at 8:05 am from the Harbor Bridge Hotel Platform in Cape Town, returning to the station by 6:30 pm the same day.

The trains can accommodate about 240 passengers. Adult tickets start at about $45 each. What a great excursion for that price! That will definitely be on our list for future trips to the Western Cape. 

We loved the company's mission to preserve and promote South African rail heritage. Ceres Rail currently operates three locomotives--a couple Class19D locomotives, and one Class 19B locomotive.

As we walked the platform and headed back to the Market, it was so affirming to see the positive affect these locomotives had on everyone, young and old. Children, parents, and grandparents all seemed to have the same child-like reaction to this timeless experience. It just felt good to see!

Another interesting destination in the area is the Almenkerk Wine Estate, located about 5 miles/9 km on the ocean side of the N2.

The estate is located within the UNESCO-recognized Kogelberg Biosphere--the first South African Biosphere to be recognized by UNESCO.

The Almenkerk Wine Estate credo and philosophy is "Elegance and Balance." Their interest in sustainable farming stems from the "Balance" part of that credo. But "Balance" to the Almenkerk's also means having fun.

To this end, they offer an educational 5 km hiking trail that crosses through apple and pear orchards, vineyards, and indigenous local fynbos. Along the trail, they have informational posters explaining the bio-diversity of the flora and fauna in the area.

The Almenkerk property was originally an apple farm when the family purchased it in 2002, and is now a family-run estate. About half the farm is now dedicated to cultivating high quality vines.

The family cares deeply about this endeavor and the local community that supports the estate.

The van Almenkerks used every scientific tool available to maximize the eventual quality of their stock, including infrared studies, satellite imagery, and electro-magnetic soil scans. The family used this information, and the analyses from several consultants, to choose the ideal cultivars for the various farm micro-climates. 

About a third of the farm is still reserved for apple and pear orchards.

Almenkerk Wines have won acclaim all over the world--especially for their select Flemish Masters series of wines. They also offer two other ranges: The Almenkerk Range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, a Merlot, and a Chardonnay; the Lace Range includes a Sauvignon Blanc, a Dry Rose, and a Vineyard Selection Wine.

The tasting room is perfectly positioned for great views of the Elgin Valley and the Kogelberg Mountains. They also offer a more sophisticated technical tasting experience for wine aficionados.

On a side note, we didn't realize that the van Almenkerks owned the renowned De Brassierie Restaurant in the Strand, less than 5 miles/9 km from our home base in Gordon's Bay. De Brassierie offers a Belgian-inspired upscale European dining experience with a very nice ocean view. De Brassierie definitely represents the "Elegance" in the van Almenkerk credo.

We headed to our next stop of the weekend--the famous Peregrine Farm Stall. The name of farm stall just doesn't do it justice! Peregrine's is part farm stall, part folk art museum, part bakery, and part cafe restaurant. Peregrine's is a must-see road-side boutique stop!

Peregrine Farm Stall was first opened in 1964. They are named after a type of South African heritage peach, not the Peregrine Falcon. Their original slogan read, "For local fresh produce, Peregrine is a peach."

Over the years, and possibly several million visitors, Peregrine has developed into an institution along the N2. 

Walking around the premises was quite a treat. They are famous for their unique taste in all things, including pop-up vendors. We took advantage of the opportunity to visit all of these quirky stores.

Our first stop was Liberty Books, a boutique bookstore with very cool decor and architecture.

Walking into this unique shop, with floor to ceiling bookshelves and cushy window seating, it was clearly a haven for book lovers. The resident librarian sat reading near a sunny window, with a content kitty cat curled up on her lap. 

Next, we went over to the iconic Book Bus for a quick peek. This 1970s retro gem is parked near the market entrance, and has been overhauled inside to be a cozy and comfortable place to kick back and enjoy one of its literary finds. Outfitted with makeshift couches and plentiful pillows, this is a cool use of a vintage relic.

The Gaia Nursery was also a treat with its beautiful flowers and eclectic garden decor.

Live plants, dried flowers, baskets, mirrors, bookshelves filled with a diverse array of knickknacks, and even old window frames placed in strategic spots created a charming and unique scene. Perusing the shed was a lesson in how to use garden tools and accessories as a decorating theme. 

Heading into the Peregrine's cafe, we saw both a retail area and a sit-down cafe restaurant. The smells of freshly baked and recently-ground coffee filled the air. We were hooked! This is the kind of place where you make excuses to visit again and again.

Peregrine's is famous for their homemade pies, and they are fully stocked with these sweet and savory treats:

Are you hungry yet? We couldn't leave empty-handed! 

They also have an amazing artisanal bakery. We can't resist a good bread, and they make all the classics, including rye, foccacia, whole wheat, raisin, banana, ciabatta, sourdough, and a healthy South African whole grain seed loaf. This favorite of Tricia's is covered with a wide range of seeds baked right in.

The time had come to leave the Elgin Valley. What a treat it was to visit Peregrine's! It made us wish we lived close enough to pop in every Sunday.

 The Caledon Hotel & Spa would be our last stop, about 70 miles/113 km from Cape Town.

The town of Caledon has had several names since the late 1700s. At one point, it was called Bad Agter de Berg, which is Dutch for Bath Behind the Mountain. The name refers to the hot springs mineral waters that have long been an attraction in the area.

Central to the Caledon experience is a visit to The Caledon Hotel & Spa. 

The Caledon Hotel & Spa is tucked away in the hills close to the rural community of Caledon. The Spa complex is beautifully built around the naturally-occurring mineral water hot springs.

The site has real historical significance. The Victorian Spa on the premises is actually a refurbished version of the original bath house built on location back in 1897.

Today, the warm baths complex is much more developed, including:

The complex is not as sprawling as the famous warm baths in Montagu, but much more personal. The Caledon is positioned to attract adults in the market for a romantic weekend.

The Montagu warm baths we visited were ideal for families and bigger groups. Both facilities were great, just geared to different markets.

The terraced outdoor mineral ponds were our favorite! The three ponds lie on three different elevations, with the higher ponds being slightly cooler than their lower counterparts. The landscaping and surrounding rock formations gave each pond its own private setting. 

The hot spring water is decidedly brown and has a bit of an odor. According to the website, the odor comes from the rapid oxidation as the spring waters reach the earth's surface.

Apparently, the naturally-occurring iron particles are great for skin exfoliation, and the oily residue that comes to the surface acts as a natural moisturizer. Understanding the health benefits behind the unusual look of the waters made the visuals more appealing. 

The Caledon sometimes offers a package deal that includes reasonably priced overnight accommodations and the world class hot springs spa complex as an included amenity... and a fun casino!

After exploring the beautiful grounds and warm baths, we grabbed a quick bite in one of the casino restaurants, then had some fun playing the slot machines in the casino. We never spend much, and always pre-set a limit to our spending, but we enjoy the action as an entertaining diversion.

With our itinerary at an end, we headed back to our home base (near Cape Town).

The Elgin Valley and Caledon had lived up to all the hype. This was definitely a trip we would recommend to anyone visiting the Western Cape for more than two weeks.

Happy travels to all. 'See you on the road!