QUICK VIEW:
The Great South African Route 62 Roadtrip takes you on a nostalgic adventure through the Western and Eastern Cape. The diverse scenery, historic towns, wine & olive estates, and tourist attractions make for a rich experience.
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Most serious travelers have heard of Route 66 in the United States--the nostalgic highway built in 1926 to connect Chicago with the Pacific coast in California. Thousands roadtrip this legendary route every year, coming from every corner of the globe.
But, ... have you ever heard of South Africa's Route 62?
Cape Route 62 is one of the most popular tourist-traveled roads in South Africa--for domestic tourists.
Researching this fabled route revealed a long list of tantalizing experiences and sites:
... Ostrich Capital of the World ... Congo Caves ... Longest Wine Route in the World ... Boutique Wine & Olive Estates ... Old Fashioned General Stores ... Ronnie's Sex Shop? ... Mineral Baths ... Perfectly Engineered Mountain Passes ...
We were all in! Roadtrip, here we come!
Having covered most of U.S Route 66, we were itching to get on the road and see everything for ourselves.
South Africa's Route 62 has been compared with America's iconic Route 66
We are Rainman and Tricia ... and we are the Road Hackers!
As Road Hackers, we specialize in building itineraries that allow us to discover diamonds in the rough all over the world.
These amazing places are usually well known to domestic travelers, but tend not to make most international tourist itineraries.
South Africa's Route 62 is one of these overlooked diamonds in the rough! We aim to be a part of changing that!
Join us as we share our experiences on the Great Route 62 Roadtrip.
Route 62 Background
South Africa's Route 62 actually gets its name from a smaller section of the road that extends between the towns of Montagu and Humansdorp. This section is the original Cape R62.
This modern tourist version of Route 62 follows the roads originally built as the most direct road between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth (531 miles/850 km). This includes sections of several national and regional roads--sections of N1, N2, R60.
The tourist route links over 30 wine estates, and is claimed to be the longest wine route in the world!
Almost all of these wine estates lie on the section of Route 62 between Oudtshoorn and Paarl.
Most tourists focus on the bigger wine estates in Worcester, Robertson, and Paarl.
Vineyards are a common part of the scenery along Route 62 in the Western Cape
But ... the real Route 62 gems are really only experienced the old fashioned way ... one mile at a time. Our goal was to experience the whole route--and all its quirky road stops!
Traveling along Route 62 really gives one a sense of 1960s and 1970s South Africa. What a treat to rediscover this simplicity.
The farming communities, the old general stores, the small dusty towns, and the charming country inns all join together to form an unforgettable experience.
In hindsight, we really needed about four days to fully appreciate the rich history and culture along the route.
Memorabilia from bygone days can be found all along Route 62
Adventures Around Oudtshoorn
We had just finished a wonderful roadtrip from Cape Town all the way along the Garden Route to Knysna. Route 62 would be the perfect itinerary as we trekked back to Cape Town.
Route 62 would give us an opportunity to head inland and experience a very different part of South Africa.
Oudtshoorn, also known as the Ostrich Capital of the World, would be our first destination along this famous route. This historic town has a proud ostrich history dating all the way back to the mid 19th Century. Their zenith came in the early 1900s, when ostrich feathers became all the rage in Europe.
Oudtshoorn has been named the ostrich capital of the world, with a history dating back to the middle of the 19th Century
With its huge flocks of ostrich, Oudtshoorn took full advantage of this global trend. Unfortunately, it was just that... a trend... and the fad ended with economic collapse.
Luckily, the ostrich farming tradition survived and we got a chance to see a functioning farm in action.
We especially enjoyed seeing the ostriches up close on the working farm
Experiencing ostrich races in person and getting to know more about the farming side of the industry was well worth the stop-over.
Here are some interesting ostrich facts:
An ostrich egg is about 20 times the size of a chicken egg
Just up the road from the ostrich farm, we stopped at a small countryside concession for refreshments.
As we relaxed drinking our cold drinks, we saw that they also offered guided camel rides. We'd never had that experience, so why not? Boy, did we regret that decision!
It seemed harmless enough. The skilled camel handlers appeared to know what they were doing. We had watched several visitors take these leisurely camel rides with no incident. But, this would not be our experience!
As Rainman began the mounting process, his camel freaked out. The handlers assured us that this was quite normal. The camel had other ideas, of course!
Rainman's camel was determined to eject his rider, bucking and violently spinning in circles! The handlers actually let go of the reigns for their own safety!
As you can see in the following photo, Rainman had been cast off the camel's back and was desperately hanging on to avoid being trampled. Tricia's camel wasn't happy either!
Rainman's camel was not happy, and decided to buck and spin to get rid of his rider
The handlers were finally able to regain control of the reigns. Rainman was carried off to safety cradled like a child! Our brother-in-law, Mauricio, somehow maintained his cool through it all, and captured the drama with pics of the unexpected commotion.
When they were finally able to calm the camel, Rainman was rescued and carried like a child over to Mauricio
Unfortunately, this anxiety also spilled over to the other camels.
Despite the chaos, and much to everyone's surprise, the handlers decided to continue Tricia's ride! Tricia was still in shock about what had just happened.
Luckily, there was no more drama on Tricia's ride, though it seemed like it would never end!
Tricia and her camel were led off for the camel ride despite the unexpected drama that had just occurred
Frazzled, but filled with adrenaline, we next headed to one of the world's greatest natural wonders, the Cango Caves.
Beneath the nearby Swartberg Mountains lie Tthe Cango Caves, one of the biggest tourist-accessible cave systems in the world..
The main section of the Cango Cave system is comprised of three very large caverns connected by tunnels, but only the first cavern is accessible to tourists. The scale of that cavern is truly awe inspiring!
The Cango Caves were truly cavernous in size, and one of nature's wonders
From the informative tour, we learned the difference between stalactites and stalagmites.
Stalactites hang from the cave ceiling and are essentially mineral deposits that accumulate as water drips from above. Stalagmites, on the other hand, are just the opposite, and grow from the ground up as minerals are deposited from water dripping to the cave ceiling.
A quick caution for anyone suffering from claustrophobia, like Tricia. Some sections are a tight squeeze as you make your way to the main cavern.
After all the stress and excitement, we were ready for a late lunch. Our restaurant choice turned out to be one of our favorite stops of the whole trip: Smitswinkel Restaurant & Farm Stall.
It was evident as soon as we arrived that the Smitswinkel Restaurant and Farm Stall was a blast from the past
Smitswinkel looked like it belonged on America's Route 66. The front facade had all the old General Store trappings, several old cars, old farming equipment, antique furniture, and all kinds of folk art.
Once inside, we were greeted by an eclectic mix of artifacts from a bygone South Africa. Every aisle had its own ghosts of history. Smitswinkel still had an old-fashioned deli counter.
One part of the store was decorated with a collection of racing bike memorabilia. An old Vespa scooter and a vintage Morris Mini greeted us as we headed out to the veranda for our lunch. What a great ambience!
Smitzwinkel was filled with lots of old time memorabilia, and even an old Morris Mini car
The outside section of the Smitswinkel restaurant had great views of their stunning gardens. We would not be dining alone! Resident cats, ducks, and a large aviary filled with colorful birds all competed for our attention. This rather unusual mix all just seemed so natural in this magical place.
Another unexpected discovery came as we reviewed the menu. Smitswinkel had its own version of Roosterkoek! We were excited to have a chance to try this delicious South African bread. The egg & cheese Roosterkoek sandwiches we ordered were enormous!
Our Roosterkoek sandwiches were piled high with eggs and cheese
As we looked across the restaurant at neighboring tables, everyone seemed to be enjoying their entrees and desserts as much as we were. Smitswinkel had captured our hearts!
Calitzdorp Experience
After our great lunch, we left the Oudtshoorn area and continued our journey deeper into the Klein Karoo.
Calitzdorp was to be our next stop along Route 62--about 33 miles/55 km west of Oudtshoorn. The town has a beautiful setting, with mountains to the north, west, and south.
The proximity to the mountains and rivers have long made Calitzdorp a favorite destination for outdoor adventure. Visitors come from all over for bird-watching, fishing, and back-road 4-wheeling.
More recently, Calitzdorp has gained a stellar reputation for its port wines. The local micro-climate has proven to be perfect for this variety of wines.
De Krans has been one of the pioneers of successfully introducing Portuguese vines to South Africa. They have won countless awards for their wines. De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve is considered to be one of the very best port-style wines in South Africa.
Fine wine starts with quality grapes, & the De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve is considered to be one of the best port-style wines in South Africa
De Krans offers sampling events every day of the week, and also has the stylish De Krans Deli & Bistro if you want a quick bite to eat. Visitors can also take a 30-minute walk through the vineyards. The views of the Gamka River Valley are just lovely.
Calitzdorp has several other wineries not too far from De Krans:
There's no doubt, we would have loved to visit all of the wineries, but time was running short.
Quest for Ronnie's Sex Shop!
We next found ourselves on a mission to get to the most curious destination on our ambitious itinerary ... Ronnie's Sex Shop! 'Another oddity on old Route 62, but, oh, so fun!
Before you get any ideas, Ronnie's doesn't have anything to do with sex. There's a story behind the name that explains its distinctive moniker.
Ronnie's Sex Shop is located on Route 62, about 16 miles/27 km before Barrydale. You can't miss the place, it's the only white-washed building for miles.
Ronnie's has somewhat of a cult following among the faithful. Devotees come from all over the world to have a drink with Ronnie! For some, it's a destination all on its own.
There's a highway sign directing travelers to Ronnie's Sex Shop, though there's not much else to be found in the area
As we drove up, we saw a nondescript white-washed building with the words "Ronnie's Sex Shop" hand painted in big bold letters on the side.
Mission accomplished!
The legend had piqued our interest and we wanted to see what all the hype was about.
Ronnie's Sex Shop is a rather nondescript building, except for its eye-catching name handwritten on its plain white facade
Now for the back story!
In the 1970s, Ronnie had a small road-side fruit and vegetable stand. "Ronnie's Shop" wasn't particularly successful, but it at least paid the bills.
The legend goes that one weekend, "friends" of Ronnie pranked him by adding the word "sex" to his sign, so it now read "Ronnie's Sex Shop."
Guess what ... people started to stop at his stall in droves, proving that sex sells, even if it's only in the name! The rest is history, as they say.
If you take a closer look, you can clearly see that the word "sex" was not part of the shops's original name
The building has two sections--a bar, and a general concession area. The Roadkill Cafe sells milkshakes and snacks. But, all the attention goes to the bar!
The Roadkill Cafe offers milkshakes and snacks, but not actually anything like its namesake!
The bar room was rather small and cozy, with a couple smaller rooms attached on one side. The ceiling was covered in a forest of women's (and some men's) under-garments ... fittingly, given the bar's name, of course. The unmentionables were signed with all manner of messages by their former owners.
Hanging from the bar's ceiling was an array of signed undergarments left to commemorate their owners visit
We were fortunate to meet Ronnie and ask about the genesis of the legend.
According to Ronnie, 32 people now claim to have painted the added word. Though Ronnie says he has narrowed his suspects to two possible culprits from Cape Town, he is unwilling to name them. And so, the mystery continues ... and it's better that way! Ronnie's Shop just doesn't work anymore!
We got to meet Ronnie and hear the place's famous story straight from the man himself
While we were there, we met people from Sweden and Germany. It seems that Ronnie's Sex Shop is now a global phenomenon. What a cool story!
Montagu and the Langeberg Mountains
As we passed through Barrydale next, we crossed through the highly productive Tradouw Valley. Barrydale is known all over South Africa for its peaches, plums, apples, and table grapes. The area is also a popular tourist destination for wildflowers in the spring and early summer.
Barrydale in the Tradouw Valley is known for its fruit and wildflowers
The Langeberg Mountains were a stunning backdrop as we exited the valley and started our ascent toward the engineering marvel of the Tradouw Pass.
This is one of the 13 major passes in the southern Cape built during the 1800s by master road builder, Sir Thomas Bain. Tradouw Pass was completed in 1873. The immense scale of the pass and the expansive views made for a spectacular drive.
The Tradouw Pass is an engineering marvel, with spectacular views of the immense gorge it was carved from
Our stop for the night was to be in Montagu. The town was well known for its mineral warm baths. After days of intensive travel, it was going to be nice to settle in for a nice soak in the healing warm waters.
Montagu is one of the few hot springs destinations in South Africa. Legend has it that an injured farmer discovered the springs and was miraculously healed by the waters. The truth is that the Khoikhoi had known of these healing properties centuries earlier.
For centuries, warm mineral rich waters have been known to have healing properties, and are quite relaxing
The hot springs are said to stem from caverns deep underground, possibly as much as 3 km below Montagu. The water temperature can be as high as 110 degrees F/43 degrees C when it reaches the surface.
Interestingly, the water pressure and water volume don't change at all during periods of drought.
There are a number of locations around town where the springs breach the surface. Several resorts have developed around these fissures in the earth. Montagu Springs Resort and Avalon Springs Resort are quite popular with tourists.
We chose to stay at the Montagu Springs Resort, and it was just what the doctor ordered. The rejuvenating waters worked their magic!
Montagu has a lot more to offer than just the warm baths. The next day we set off for a morning of exploration before making our way over to Robertson.
The Langeberg Mountains overlook fertile fields in Montagu
Montagu is a very pretty town with the Langeberg Mountains looming over the valley. The nearby peaks have become a favorite rock climbing destination. In town, the old Dutch and Victorian architectures added to the charm of the town.
The surrounding farms have acres and acres of fruit orchards. Montagu is known for producing peaches, apricots, apples, and pears. It is also home to a thriving dried fruit brand whose mission is to specialize in healthy snacks, including nuts, seeds, and biltong.
Fruit orchards are a common sight on the farms in Montagu
After breakfast at one of the many artisan restaurants along Main Street, we once again set off on our Route 62 expedition.
As we climbed out of town into the Langeberg Mountains, we were treated to majestic rock formations and panoramic views. The road over Kogmanskloof Pass is another of the iconic passes engineered by Thomas Baines. By this point, we were getting close to Ashton.
The tunnel at Kogmanskloof Pass is an impressive engineering feat through a massive rock formation
Robertson Valley Experience
The setting was idyllic as we drove down from the Langeberg Mountains on the approach to the Robertson Valley. As we reached civilization, we were delighted to see Main Street lined with jacaranda trees and colorful roses, creating a charming introduction to this quaint town.
The jacaranda trees on Main Street were a charming introduction to the quaint town
The Breede River winds its way through Robertson Valley, providing a life-sustaining source of water for the well-developed farming community in the area.
The valley is world famous for its wine, and wine estates. The Bon Courage Wine Estate and De Wetshof Wine Estate are the two major players here.
The De Wetshof Wine Estate was the first estate to introduce Burgundian grapes to South Africa. As a result, this third-generation wine estate is seen as the leading producer of fine Chardonnays in the country.
The green-skinned Chardonnay grape was originally from the Burgundy wine region of eastern France, but is now grown across the world
De Wetshof recently also introduced high quality red cultivars to the Robertson Valley, hoping to emulate the family's success with the Chardonnays.
The Cellar Master, Danie De Wet, possesses excellent vintner credentials from the renowned Geisenheim Institute in Germany.
The impressive De Wetshof Wine Estate is very popular with tourists and wine aficionados from all over the world. The estate receives guests every day of the week, hosting thousands of visitors for wine tastings and tours each year.
De Wetshof is a must-do if you find yourself in Robertson!
From wine aficionados to tourists, The De Wetshof Wine Estate is very popular for wine tastings and tours each year
The Bon Courage Wine Estate is also a third generation family-run wine estate, with a homestead that dates back to 1818. The Bruwer family has been developing the estate since 1927.
The inspiring Cape Dutch architecture of the homestead dominates the estate on the drive into the Bon Courage grounds.
Brothers Andre and Jacques Bruwer run the estate today. Andre focuses on the viticulture, while Jacques coordinates all aspects of the Cellar.
Bon Courage and the Bruwer family have been hugely successful, especially with their Shiraz wines. They are consistent award winners in South Africa, and have been blessed to win two consecutive gold medals at the Syrah-du-Monde in France.
The Bon Courage Wine Estate offers a wide range of wines for purchase, including a uniquely South African Pinotage Rose, as well as Chardonnays, Merlots, Cabernets, Sauvignons, Shiraz, Ports, and a Blush Vin Doux Sparkling Wine.
With such variety, it would be a shame not to participate in a tasting experience!
The Bon Courage Wine Estate has been successful with a wide range of wines
Good news! The estate offers daily tours of the cellars and plenty of wine tasting opportunities.
The excellent Cafe Maude offers both indoor and outdoor dining. For those who need to totally immerse themselves in the Bon Courage experience, they even have cottages for over-night stays!
There are more than 50 wineries scattered across the Robertson Valley. Here are a few of the best in case you want to spend a week in Robertson:
Worcester Experience
After a splendid time in the Robertson Valley, we set off for our next big stop in Worcester--31 miles/50 km away. As we approached Worcester, it seemed like we were driving past one continuous never-ending vineyard.
The area around Worcester produces about 25% of South Africa's wine and spirits.
Driving along, we saw a very odd-looking farm machine, and just had to stop to investigate. We'd heard about mechanized grape-picking machines and wondered whether this was one of them.
The grape harvester machines are an expensive purchase but save about 75% on labor costs
Grape harvesters can cost anywhere from $300,000 to $400,000 without accessories! Of course, the labor savings end up being tremendous. The industry estimates that these machines save about 75% on labor costs.
Today, vineyards are actually designed to conform to harvester specifications. The grapes are gathered as the machine shakes both the trunk and the upper vine canopy to loosen the fruit. The grapes then efficiently fall into a catchment at the bottom of the machine. This was all new to us. Thanks, Route 62!
Today's vineyards are designed for the use of efficient mechanized harvesting
Worcester would be our stopover for the night. We were looking forward to a change of pace, so we headed over to the Golden Valley Casino. The casino offers 3-star accommodation within walking distance. It was time for a nice meal and bit of mindless slot machine action!
The next day would be our last on Route 62, so we planned to make the most out of our remaining time. We had wanted to visit the KWV House of Brandy, but, as it turns out, they no longer allow public tours.
Locals informed us that we would have to go about 35 miles/58 km away to the KWV House of Fire location in Paarl to access a brandy tour. That would have to wait for a later excursion.
The KWV distillery in Worcester is the biggest brandy distillery in the Southern Hemisphere. Some of the vineyards in the region grow special grapes specifically for brandy production. The distillery can yield more than 300,000 liters of wine in a single day!
South African law requires that potstill brandy be aged for three years in oak caskets. The KWV distillery has more than 120 copper potstills available for distillating.
Potstill bandy is produced using the same process as cognac, but cannot go by that name because cognac grapes are not used. We would have loved to witness this operation firsthand, and were disappointed that they no longer offer tours.
South African law requires that potstill brandy be distilled in oak caskets for three years
Worcester has a very rich history of wine production dating all the way back to the 1700s.
The Worcester Wine & Olive Route has 11 wine estates and two major olive producers:
Unfortunately, we only had enough time for one of the Olive estates.
The Willow Creek Olive Estate lies in the Nuy Valley just below the end of the Langeberg Mountains. The farm has been in the Rabie family since the 1700s! For the first two centuries, the farm produced wheat, grapes, and vegetables. Olive farming is a relatively new endeavor for the family.
The first olive trees were planted in 1999, with the first olives pressed three years later in 2002. Today, the Rabie family farms over 150,000 olive trees--one of the largest olive estates in Southern Africa! The estate focuses primarily on producing premium extra virgin olive oil products.
Today, Willow Creek Olive Estate controls all facets of production.
Though olive production at Willow Creek Olive Estate is relatively new, the farm is one of the biggest in South Africa
The farm has a well-developed olive tree nursery that supplies all of their own stock.
Willow Creek ships olive trees all over South Africa. The nursery grows more than 10 different varieties, including the Kalamata olive tree, the Mission olive tree (green and black table olives), and the Croatian olive tree (best for making high quality extra virgin olive oil).
Once the olives are picked, they have their own olive processing factory and bottling facilities. The on-location factory can press up to 6.5 tons of olives per hour!
Their Willow Creek Tasting Room is a foodie's culinary delight! The tasting experience introduces participants to several of their best products, including:
What a treat for the taste buds! The Lion Creek Estate would have to wait for another Route 62 excursion.
Samples of a variety of olives and olive oils are a treat in the Tasting Room at the Willow Creek Olive Estate
Continuing along the Worcester Wine & Olive Route is the Nuy Winery Estate (founded 1963).
Today the Nuy Winery produces over 17,000 tons of wine each year. They are known for their excellent Sauvignon Blanc, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscadel and Semi-Sweet Sparkling Wines. Nuy Winery also makes its own brandy and gin.
Only 3% of the best quality wine is kept locally to be bottled under their own Nuy brand.
The Nuy Winery is careful to choose grapes from their best vineyards in making their wines. They are also meticulous when it comes to the barrel selection for the aging process.
If you're looking for a lovely lunch, either before or after a tasting, head to their patio with beautiful views of the Langeberg Mountains. Nuy Winery also has a deli where you can get a quick bite if pressed for time.
Everything about the Nuy Winery is first class.
The Langeberg Mountains are a scenic backdrop to vineyards in this region of the Western Cape
Farewell to Route 62!
It was time to get back on the road and head to our home base! Our Route 62 adventure was coming to an end!
Our remaining 70 miles/120 km itinerary would take us through the Huguenot Tunnel over to Paarl, then down to Stellenbosch, then to the coast and our base home in Gordon's Bay.
The drive between Worcester and Paarl used to require passing through Du Toitskloof Pass and the Du Toitskloof Tunnel. The Huguenot Tunnel was completed in 1988 to bypass this unsafe route.
The new Huguenot Tunnel is 2.4 miles/3.9 km long, but it saves about 20 minutes compared to the old route. The tunnel seemed to go on forever, but it was beautifully engineered.
Once through the the Huguenots Tunnel, we gradually started our descent into the farming area around Paarl. The panoramic views were quite beautiful! With each twist and turn, we seemed to get a better vantage point.
The expansive fruit orchids and vineyards went on for miles and miles. Even though we weren't stopping, the drive itself was the reward enough! We hoped to save the Paarl experience for a later excursion.
The drive through the farming area around Paarl passed by miles of orchards and vineyards
Synthesizing our Route 62 experience would take some time!.
There were just too many highlights, one after the other! And to think, we had only just scratched the surface of the endless possibilities. Our itinerary could have been extended another week. But, that's the beauty of travel.
Next time, we'll discover new gems, and create new memories, as we focus on filling the gaps!
