Roadmap to Great Memories in Split, Croatia

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Great memories are waiting to be made in Split, Croatia. Dalmatia's largest city has it all! Follow this itinerary with visits to Old Town, Diocletian Palace, the Riva, Marjan Hill, the Ferry Port, and the Pazar Market.

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Croatia is located on the Adriatic Sea at the crossroads of Central and Southeast Europe. This Blog is part of a travel series covering the Road Hackers' two month visit to the Dalmatian coastal region in 2022.

During our two month stay in Croatia, our first adventure was to head north to visit the Diocletian Palace and Old Town Split. 

There is no doubt, we had big expectations--and hoped for a great start to our Croatian experience! Split is Croatia's second-largest city, Dalmatia's largest city, and the country's largest coastal city. 

Diocletian Palace and Old Town in Split
Baptism by fire, as they say! Our travels do not include having our own personal car. Croatia has a well-developed public bus system, and we were going to test that notion. Easier said than done! Catching a bus in a foreign country is difficult enough, but English is not widely spoken in the smaller Croatian villages or by all bus drivers.

Luckily, our landlord's son, Drago, who lives off-site in Split, spoke English. During our stay he was available to answer questions via WhatsApp or by phone, though we tried not to take advantage of his time. He was able to provide the bus name, approximate schedule, and the location of the bus stops we needed to reach our destination.

On paper, it all seemed quite straightforward... get to the bus stop, pay for the $2 bus ticket, get off at the main bus stop in Split.

Not so fast! We did a little more investigating to be sure there were no hidden variables... and discovered there were many!

Pjerino, our English-speaking local restauranteur from Zazu, provided further details for our bus adventure. He informed us that the city bus we saw pass by did not service our local Suhi Potok stop.

We needed to look for a privately owned Dalmatina bus that did not have a bus number--only a destination descriptor that wasn't always the same. (There had been a turf battle between the city bus company and the local municipalities, and the city got rid of several of their smaller stops.) Important information to know!

He also gave us a heads-up on the name of our destination stop, the one closest to the Diocletian Palace gates. The Google Maps app on the phone gave us an indication of when were getting close. Since the bus does not announce stops, we had to develop our own way of anticipating when we would reach the right one.  

Once at our Pazar stop, we found the local Pekara, or bakery. We ordered sour cherry pastries, a delicious find in Croatia. This would prove to be our first stop on visits to Split, and one we looked forward to!

Next, we changed the destination on Google Maps to the Golden Gate of the Palace and followed the suggested route. Success!

In researching our options to explore Old Town and the Diocletian Place, we were happy to discover that Airbnb Experiences offered several comprehensive experiences with reputable guides at very reasonable prices ($17 each).

This was convenient and reassuring, because our initial online searches showed that many of the excursions could not be reliably booked. Pre-season bookings are hit and miss and contact inquiries are unresponsive at times.

We were instructed to meet our guide in front of the Golden Gate of the Palace. Our tour was conducted by a gifted local historian, Boris. We happened to be the only participants in this particular time slot that day. Boris was personable and passionate about his role, and was pleased to answer all of our questions during the private tour. 

The Golden Gate is one of four access gates to the Diocletian Palace:  Golden (north gate), Silver (east Gate), Bronze (south gate), and Iron (west gate). The Golden Gate was originally the primary ceremonial entrance and exit used by Roman Emperor Diocletian and his family.

Before we entered the Palace, Boris gave us a historical orientation to the area, including the periods before and after the Roman occupation. His summary provided a solid foundation of knowledge for understanding the context of what we were about to see.

Diocletian had the Palace built (295 - 305 AD) to serve as his retirement residence. He was the first Roman Emperor to retire from office. The Palace location was purposely chosen to be close to the Dalmatia provincial capital of Salona. The Palace and Old Town are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Old Town Split was built within the Palace walls and occupies about half the grounds. The Diocletian Palace was so much more than a palace. Almost half the footprint housed a sizable Roman Garrison. A detailed model of the original Palace has now been developed. Today, more than 1,000 people still live in the Old Town. 

Watching over the Palace entrance is a giant 128 ft/8.5-metre statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin. Gregory is a hero to Croatians for rebelling against the Catholic Church's requirement during the 10th Century that services be held only in Latin. He introduced the Croatian language in religious services after the Great Assembly in 926.

Legend has it that rubbing the towering statue's big toe brings good luck, and the digit is worn to a golden sheen from years of superstitious rubbing. Who were we to question this wisdom, and besides, what did we have to lose? Rub the toe, check!

Gregory's statue was originally housed in the Palace in the Split Peristyle square. It was removed by occupying Italian forces during WWII (1941). Restoration efforts after the war relocated the statue to its present location at the Golden Gate entrance.

The Palace layout is essentially divided by two traverses across the city--an east-west one connecting the Silver and Iron Gates, and a north-south traverse connecting the Golden and Brass Gates. The southern part of the Palace held the Emperor's residences and is decidedly more ornate. The northern sector housed the garrison and servants.

As we entered the Golden Gate, we were treated to a spontaneous Roman gauntlet. Young men dressed in period costume provide photo opps for tourists, with the hope of making some pocket money for their efforts.

The corridors and alleys created a decided maze-like structure. Everywhere we looked, we were surrounded by beautiful white marble and travertine-like stone, and the streets were washed clean and free of litter.

The Diocletian Palace is the most complete Roman palace in the world. This wasn't like the ruins we had seen in Greece or other parts of Europe. The restoration and upkeep of this site is outstanding, though purists might disagree.

We entered the heart of the Palace, called the Peristyle. The area looks like a Roman forum straight out of the movies.

The Emperor and his family would address their subjects from the balcony, located at the far end and looking out over the expansive space. Beneath the balcony we saw the entrance to the sub-structures of the Palace Cellars. Boris let us know that we would conclude our tour with an exploration of the basements.

While wandering around the Peristyle, there was a buzzing in the crowd of something about to happen. After several minutes of anxious waiting and positioning ourselves up front near the balcony, we were pleasantly surprised when trumpets began to blare.

One by one soldiers began to march out, followed by the Emperor and his wife. The entrance was heralded by all the Roman pomp and circumstance one would expect of a Roman Emperor. We were privileged to witness the re-enactment of the Emperor's first welcome address of the summer?

We couldn't believe our luck of being in the right place at just the right time.

To the left of the balcony area, we saw Diocletian's mausoleum. Keep in mind, these structures were built prior to Rome's sanctioning the Church. The mausoleum was later modified and became known as St. Domnius Cathedral. The magnificent bell tower was only added in the 14th Century AD. Pope John Paul II visited the Cathedral in 2000.

Diocletian was a big fan of Egyptian and Greek artifacts and decoration. He brought 12 granite sphinxes and quite a number of granite columns from Egypt to be included in the layout of his Palace.

Three remaining 3,500-year old sphinxes can be found in the Peristyle, Jupiter's Temple, and the Split Museum. Greek artifacts and designs are also seen embedded on many of the Palace walls.

The Temple of Jupiter is located just west of the Peristyle, originally used to worship the Roman god, Jupiter. The Temple was renamed St. John's Church and converted into a Christian Baptistery in the 6th Century. One of the ancient granite sphinxes guards the entrance.

Unfortunately, unlike the sphinx in the Peristyle, this one is quite damaged. Sarcophagi of two of Split's Archbishops were later housed in the Baptistery. A bronze statue of St. John is visible as you enter the Temple.

As the tour continued, we climbed the stairs of the Peristyle balcony and headed into the Vestibule entrance that marks the beginning of the Imperial apartments. The area was domed and stood more than 50 ft/17 m tall.

During Roman times, the Vestibule was the official entry to the royal living quarters. Boris described its decorative splendor of the time, all meant to provide an impressive first impression for the important visitors. 

Immediately upon entering the Vestibule, we were greeted by the sound of powerful tenor voices filling the rotunda. A small group of three tenors were performing inspiring and rousing local folk songs from their Croatian repertoire. It seems these groups perform traditional Dalmatian songs in the Vestibule around noon every day during the summer season.

The acoustics of the rotunda structure are superb for a cappella groups, leaving us with the proverbial chills! Again, our timing was impeccable...

Moving on, we entered the Imperial apartments area. The upper floor of the apartments are quite damaged from years of above-ground exposure. We walked along the original outer southern wall of the apartments, more than 120 ft/40 m long.

The lower ground floor is much more intact and preserved. This southern flank of the Palace was designed to offer beautiful sea views of the Adriatic, with 42 windows and three large balconies.

As we left the Imperial apartments, we headed back outside to the beautiful Fruit Square. Dramatic baroque architecture surrounds and frames the area. The square used to be the major fruit and vegetable market for the locals--hence the name. A statue of Marko Marulic, celebrated as the father of Croatian literature, is located near the center of the square. 

After Fruit Square, we walked over to People's (Pjaca) Square, a much bigger gathering plaza. This open area became a very popular community meeting place starting in the 14th Century.

Our guide provided an interesting anecdote: The square historically had gathering zones depending on your age, sex, and marital status. Community members migrated through the zones as they aged and got married.

The People's Square has more of a Renaissance feel. The impressive clock tower was built in the 15th Century on top of an ancient Roman tower from Diocletian times. The 15th Century Old Town City Hall is very nicely preserved as an ethnographic museum.

The square is also home to the ornate Cindro Palace, a Baroque building that housed one of the most powerful Split families in the 17th Century.

We made our way back over to the waterfront, known as the Riva (more on this area later). From here, we have access to the immaculately preserved Palace substructures.

We entered through the Bronze Gate southern entrance to the Palace. This entrance is also known as the "Sea Gate," because the original southern flank was built right next to the sea. Scholars believe that the Sea Gate was an entry for boats entering and leaving the Palace Cellars. 

A substantial part of the Cellars was buried in trash and debris for centuries. Ironically, this resulted in most of the structure to be the most well-preserved areas of the Palace. A large section of the Cellars is now open to the public. 

As we entered this sub-structure, we were struck by the scale. The awesome barrel-vaulted ceilings towered above us as we walked. Once inside, there are several side vaults that lead to beautifully preserved parts of the original Palace. It was inspiring to see the original architecture and artifacts. 

The western part of the basements was especially well preserved, because it was more buried than the eastern section. According to archeologists, the western basements were dark and damp and closed off. The western basements were opened in 1959.

The eastern section is described as being much more airy and ventilated, given that their hallways were built around four large open courtyards. The eastern basement halls were only opened in 1996. Over the centuries, some of the structures had collapsed. This sector was much more exposed to the elements. 

As we walked up the stairs headed back toward the Peristyle, our guide threw in a little popular culture. The blockbuster HBO series, Game of Thrones, had several scenes filmed in the Diocletian Palace.

The entrance stairway was featured in a scene showing Daenerys descending into the dragon lair. Not far from this location, several of the narrow corridors and alleys were used in the Meereen Slave Revenge scenes, showing the Sons of Harpy waiting for the Unsullied.

Once back in the Peristyle square, we headed back to the Golden Gate entrance. There was no doubt we'd just skimmed the surface of this magnificent introduction to Split. We thanked Boris for this great orientation, knowing we'd be back for a more in-depth solo-exploration. Diocletian Palace is like a great movie that you just have to see again and again! 

THE MODERN SPLIT EXPERIENCE
The modern city of Split literally sits on the doorstep of the Diocletian Palace. Over numerous visits, we explored the city end to end, meaning lots of bus trips and plenty of walking!

The area of Split was actually first settled long before Diocletian built his Palace. The original settlement was part of the Greek colony of Aspalathos sometime between the 3rd and 2nd Centuries BC. Around 650 AD, Split succeeded Salona as the new capital of the Roman Province of Dalmatia.

After the collapse of the Roman Empire, the area fell under the control of the Byzantine Empire. The Croats arrived during this very turbulent time. Over the next millennium, the territory was repeatedly challenged by various powers: the Kingdom of Venice, the Ottomans, Napoleon, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Split has been a strategic maritime port throughout this history. Under the Romans, it was called Spalatum. It was only after WWI, when Croatia joined the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, that the Croatian name of Split became official.

But that's enough history for now...

As is the case with most tourists, we were immediately drawn to the Riva promenade. The Riva is a wide pedestrian boardwalk that stretches from the eastern boundary of the Diocletian Palace all the way to the end of the Port Authorities building near Marjan Hill.

The design of this spacious walking zone is thoughtful, functional, and inviting. The waterfront section that runs along the Adriatic shoreline is at least 40 ft/13 m wide and accommodates numerous boating excursion sales booths.

Tourists can purchase island excursion tickets and immediately step on the boat, all within a few feet/meters.

Vendors try to entice and satisfy travelers with tour packages to various island destinations: Blue Cave, Blue Lagoon, 5-Island, 3-Island, and Sunset Cruises.

From this launch location in Split, excursions visit most of the major islands: Brac, Hvar, Vis, Korcula, Solta, and Drvenik. Individual tickets range from $45 - $120 per person, depending of the duration and distance.

About 40 ft/13 m from the waterfront is a beautiful palm-lined walkway ideal for a scenic stroll. Shady benches provide a relaxing place to take in great views of the harbor, a diverse array of boats, and the busy hum of action on the promenade (about 40 ft/13 m wide).

The Riva's vibrant restaurant/vendor corridor (about 120 ft/40 m wide) is alive with activity. The sea-side is lined with vendor booths selling everything from gourmet olive oil and spices, to folk crafts and unique artisan creations.

Small outdoor restaurants line the Riva area closest to the buildings, extending for almost half a kilometer!  Each one is unique, but all are tastefully decorated with potted plants, and many have comfortable, shaded lounge seating--like you're relaxing in your own living room!

The view is spectacular, and lively music creates a festive vibe. These eateries are packed with patrons for lunch, and especially popular in the evenings. 

The Riva is a special marriage of history and modern living. With Old Town buildings as a backdrop for a lively combination of commerce, this clearly serves as an important public gathering spot in Split.  On the long list of offerings on the Riva, add people watching! 

Leaving the Riva, we explored the Split Ferry Port. This Port serves large ferries that take cars, passengers, bicycles, and pets to all the main Croatian islands and some of the Italian ports.

The ferry piers are a short ten-minute walk to the south from the Riva. Eight major ferry companies operate at here, with service to 25 destinations. They offer anywhere from 33 to 98 journeys per day, depending on the season. 

The Port even has a free toilet, signed as WC for Water Closet, and it was clean! Most city toilets charge about a dollar for access. Some are coin-operated, an inconvenience if you don't have the change. Some are staffed by an attendant who takes your money, and can break a bill. These staffed facilities are maintained and sure to be clean.

As we walked around the city, we regularly saw logos and emblems for the local football (soccer) team, HNK Hajduk Split. There's no doubt this city loves its soccer heroes!

On one of our visits, an older lady warned us to be careful walking on the roads: The team had won a big game the night before, so drivers may be hung over or tired. Needless to say, we heeded her warning and were extra careful maneuvering the busy streets.

Our next exploration in Split took us north of the Riva to Marjan Hill. As we approached, it was clear this place has great significance for the City. The Croatian flag could be seen flying proudly near the highest point of the hill.

According to locals, they detested the former Yugoslav flag when it flew on Marjan Hill. Along the way to the top, we were treated to a very special view of St. Jerome Church.

The top of Marjan Hill is about two miles/three km from the city center. The hill is actually part of a protected park, which is very well managed and widely used by all ages for walking, hiking, cycling, and jogging. Benches are available all over the Park. We saw many families, who seemed to really appreciate this natural space so close to the city.

The walkway up Marjan Hill is a perfectly maintained hard surface. For the more athletic, there's a final stairway of about 314 steps up to Telegrin, the highest point on the hill.

The views of the Split Harbor and Old Town are truly spectacular, and well worth the effort. We then really enjoyed the hike down, as we got to see the view a second time, and it was easier than going up!

The Split Pazar was another highlight for us as we explored the city. Pazar gives tourists an excellent way to experience the authentic vibe of day-to-day life in Split.

The Pazar actually owes its existence to the original Fruit Market Square located in the Old City. The Fruit Market site was becoming too small for the expanding population, and for the rapid increase in available produce.

Pazar is a sizable fruit and vegetable market, though you'll find a lot more here: cheese, bread, olives, olive oil, flowers, traditional arts and clothing, Croatian fast food, coffee-by-the-cup, beer & wine, cured meats, and freshly butchered meats.

The Market is open daily from 8am-3pm, though we found that things start to wind up earlier. Located next to the eastern wall of the Diocletian Palace and our local city bus stop, it was a convenient and pleasant ending before heading home.

Our Pazar visits were sensory overloads. The sights, the sounds, the colors, the smells, all join together for a most enjoyable experience. You'll see it all--haggling, shouting, dancing to music, singing, smoking, serious conversation, bread baking, frustration, joy, eating, and more. Locals say this is the spirit of Dalmatia. It's hard to argue with that.

If Marjan Hill is the lungs of Split, then Pazar is the authentic heartbeat! This is a don't miss, so bring your senses, comfortable shoes, and a big shopping bag.

Split is a major destination in Croatia, and it was certainly a frequent go-to during our stay. We explored the city several times, and traveled there by bus as a jumping off point for visiting other places. Ancient, modern, interesting Split. As they say in Croatian, Znamenit... Memorable!

Up Next: A Unique Expereience at Krka National Park in Croatia