Great Croatia Itinerary Exploring the Dalmatian Coast

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A great Croatia itinerary exploring the Dalmatian coast should include Dubrovnik Old Town, the waterfalls at Krka National Park, an outdoor adventure in Omis, the views from above Skradin, Split’s Old Town and Riva, and historic Trogir.

At Hacking the Road, we are dedicated to finding ways to help people live a Better Life ... on the Road! We are full-time travelers and experience seekers, and we want to share our stories with you. We believe that travel opens hearts and minds, and makes the world a better place. Join us as we explore each new destination.

We are Rainman and Tricia ... and we are the Road Hackers! As Road Hackers, we specialize in building itineraries that allow us to discover diamonds in the rough all over the world.

These amazing places are usually well known to domestic travelers, but tend to be overlooked by most international tourists.

Croatia is located on the Adriatic Sea at the crossroads of Central and Southeast Europe.  This Blog is part of a travel series covering the Road Hackers' two month visit to the Dalmatian coastal region in 2022.

The Dalmatian coast is well known for a rich cultural history, its islands and the mesmerizing views of the Adriatic, and, for some, its fictional Game of Thrones locations. Many tourists may be familiar with Split and Dubrovnik, but the region between the two cities is also worth a deep dive. Road-tripping gave us the opportunity to fill in the gaps as we travelled between the major cities.

Highlights of our exploration of the Dalmatian coastal region include:

But first, take a look at our 11 Interesting Facts related to this Dalmatian itinerary...

Travel accompanied by knowing something about the local historical, cultural, and geographical context adds a sense of magic that can enrich each travel experience. Knowledge of the ghosts of eras past, the secret ingredients of the national foods, the rhythm of the local music, the wildlife inhabitants, and the historic battles that shaped the area--all can all have profound influences on how you perceive your visit, and what you take away from it. 

We learned some key background information that we found helpful in painting a more complete picture of the local Dalmatian coast, and in better appreciating our experience: 

Flying into the Dalmatian Coast
Closest Major Airport: Split (SPU) is served by major airlines and is fairly central to most Dalmatian attractions.
Next Closest Airport: Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) is served by major airlines, but the city is approximately 145 miles/233 km from Split.

Traveling by Bus or Ferry to the Dalmatian Coast
Checking Wanderu.com, Split is easily accessible by bus from most major European cities by FlixBus at very reasonable rates. For example, Venice (Italy) to Split takes about 14 -16 hours and costs about $60. Checking Croatiaferries.com, a ferry from Ancona (Italy) to Split takes about nine hours and costs about $40 for foot passengers. The number of ferries running in any given week depends on the season--two ferries in low season, seven ferries in high season.

Traveling by Train to the Dalmatian Coast
Checking RometoRio.com, Dalmatia is very accessible by train from most major cities across Europe. Eurail tickets are the way to go for medium to longer stays in the region. A regular train trip from Venice to Split would take about 13 - 15 hours and cost about $125.

Car Rental in the Dalmatian Coast Area
Use Kayak.com to find the best deals on car rentals: SIXT, Alamo Rental a Car, and Enterprise Car Rental tend to be competitive locally.

Arriving by Cruise Ship
Major Dalmatian Ports: Zadar, Sibenik, Split, and Dubrovnik.
Major Cruise Lines Docking in Dalmatia: Celebrity, Holland America, Royal Caribbean, Regent, Norwegian, Costa, Carnival, Princess, Cunard, and Disney.

In 2022, our three-month visit to the Western Cape in South Africa began in February and lasted through April. We arrived mid to late summer and departed as the mid autumn temperatures started to cool. 

Next on the travel itinerary was our long-awaited adventure to coastal Dalmatia. CPT(Cape Town)-IST(Istanbul)-ZAG(Zagreb)-SPU(Split) here we come! It was a very long travel, but luckily South Africa is in the same time zone as Croatia, so we were able to acclimate our inner clocks relatively easily.

This was our first visit to Croatia and the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. The trip had long been a bucket list destination. Ironically, our original introduction to Croatia came during the War of Independence in the early 1990s. Global news coverage exposed the world to the beautiful Croatian coast for the first time. Croatia's 2013 entry into the European Union was also a huge catalyst in opening the opportunity to travelers for the first time.

Our two-month itinerary was quite ambitious. We planned on seeing as much of Dalmatia between Sibenik and Dubrovnik as our budget would allow. North-to-south, we were able to explore Krka National Park, Skradin, Trogir, Split, Suhi Potok (Jessenice), Omis, and Dubrovnik. While it was an exhaustive list, it was exhilarating! With so many places around the globe to discover, we don't know when or if we'll be back. So our philosophy is to make the most of wherever we are.  

When we scouted for the ideal accommodation, we wanted to find a smaller coastal town south of the major city of Split, with access to decent bus transportation. This location would be our base for all excursions for the duration of the stay. The small coastal village of Suhi Potok fit the bill perfectly, with a population of just 2,089! The town is located about 11 miles/17 km south of Split in the settlement of Jessenice. From what we can discern, settlements are bigger than towns, but smaller than counties in Croatia.

Our travels do not include having our own personal car. Not knowing the area, we booked an Uber at the Split airport for about $45 when we first arrived. A surcharge is added for smaller locations away from the cities, since you won't find a lot of local Uber service in the small towns. With a little trial and error during our stay, we figured out the local bus system. A ticket on most routes within 12 miles/20 km cost $2 each way. This strategy kept our transport costs very low.

We arrived to Croatia at the beginning of May intending to avoid the high temperatures, big summer crowds, and higher prices. May, June, and September are the best months for visiting here. In mid-spring everything starts to come alive, and flowers were sprouting and blooming everywhere we looked. Most gardens had roses and lilies, and the mountainside was covered in wild flowers. Croatians love being surrounded by beauty! And we loved it too...

We found a cute little one-bedroom AirBnB apartment. Arriving just before the peak summer season, our monthly rate was very reasonable at $875. We were able to get a further discount given our stay of more than two months. Keep in mind that most AirBnB hosts give a 10-50% discount for stays of 28+ days.

The apartment was on the second floor in a private building owned by our landlords, Ante and Neda. This friendly couple only spoke Croatian, but luckily they arranged to have a neighbor across the street who spoke English there upon our arrival to translate answers to all of our questions.

Ante and Neda live in Split, but were our neighbors in an adjacent apartment whenever they came to Suhi Potok. Their stays became increasingly more frequent towards the end of our stay, and once summer hits, they move to Suhi Potok full-time. They do rent out the other apartments in the building, but there were no other tenants during our stay since it was not officially tourist season yet.

The building was located high up on a hillside that looked out over the Adriatic Sea and the large island of Brac. Views from our balcony were tremendous! We loved opening the curtains every morning, and kept them open all day to see what sights we would see. We watched as boats big and small cruised along the Adriatic. Views from the bedroom window in back were of the lush green hillside and the mountain range overlooking our neighborhood.

The apartment was well equipped, and included in our monthly rent was everything we needed to make it our two-month home:

The area surrounding us was very green and natural. As we walked through our neighborhood, we noticed that many homes had extensive gardens. Colorful blooms brightened our path, and the ground was planted with healthy looking vegetation that showed assurance for an abundance of varied crops. Our Croatian abode was no exception. 

Ante was an avid gardener, cultivating every square inch of green space on his property. His gardens were loaded with many prolific rose bushes, flowers, and even one cacti that flowered like we had never seen before (which is saying something having lived in Arizona for over ten years!).

Vegetables and herbs were abundant: tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, peas, artichokes, zucchini, pumpkins, spinach, lettuce, onions, basil, lavender, and rosemary. Grape vines latched on to fences, trellises, and a wire patchwork over the parking area, promising shade from the later summer sun. Olive, fig, cherry, and pomegranate trees held buds for fruit in due time.

Space comes at a premium, so much of Ante's time and effort was initially spent setting up scaffolding and tying up the vegetables and vines as they grew, as well as setting up an irrigation system. It was quite an operation, and one he had clearly developed over time! 

Ante and Neda were very generous with their harvest. Our first introduction was being presented with a yellow rose upon our arrival. We were then given periodic deliveries at our doorstep of lettuce, spinach, basil, and near the end of our stay when they came to fruition--zucchini, cucumbers, and tomatoes. We also regularly picked a small bouquet of flowers for our table, and helped ourselves to some rosemary for roasting with potatoes and vegetables, knowing our farmer was happy to share. 

The gardens were an unexpected bonus to our living space. We often wandered through the beds to check on the growing progress of each area, and were surprised at how quickly things changed under the warm--and increasingly hot--Croatian sun. Sitting at the shaded picnic table looking out at the Adriatic with a light breeze blowing was a peaceful and memorable treat...

The abundance produced by most of the home gardens no doubt exceeds what these families can consume. Apparently, families mostly grow for their own consumption and supplying produce for their extended families. Some of the produce is canned and stored for use during the colder months.

Larger gardens supply fruit and vegetables for the farmer's markets across the region, like the Pazar in Split. It appears that local farmers have a table at the market to sell their yield. Vegetables are extremely cheap in Croatia: onions at $0.10 each, lemons at $0.25 each, eggplants at $0.40 each, zucchini at $0.20 each, and small cabbages at $0.50 each.

There were two ways to reach the Adriatic Sea from our apartment. Our preferred route down was to take the longer, more gradual route that wound down through the neighborhood. Passing the homes and gardens was a peek into everyday life, and we loved feeling part of the local activity.

The alternative, and our preferred route for returning home, was a steep set of 173 concrete stairs. The direct path down toward the sea, and back up to home sweet home, was a rugged climb either way. One section of the hike was shaded by a massive fig tree, and we felt fortunate to have this shortcut, despite its challenging gradient. Our regular bus stop was located directly at the base of the steps, so we navigated them pretty regularly.

Because we chose to not have a car, we had to figure out how to manage grocery shopping. So that we could have a small base of essentials on our first day, Ante was kind enough to drive us to a grocery store called Tommy's, which tends to locate in areas with bigger population.

A few days later, the English speaking neighbor and her husband generously drove us to find electrical adaptors and to do a more substantial shop in Omis, a larger adjacent town.

Going forward, we were on our own. The supermarket chain Studenac is available just about everywhere, ranging from smaller local outlets to larger full-fledged supermarkets.

Interestingly, the prices at the smaller Studenac outlets are the same as the prices charged at their larger locations. We found two great stores within walking distance, and they became our go-to spots. 

One of them was a little larger, with more product options to choose from. The other was adequate for most of our needs, and was run by an English speaking Croatian woman named Romana. She was very helpful, and her friendly and personable attitude made this our preferred stop unless we needed something she didn't carry. 

Speaking of carrying, for every shopping trip we each brought a backpack that we would use to bag our groceries. This meant buying only what would fit in the packs, and shopping more frequently than we were used to in the States. The packs were usually fully loaded, and rather heavy.

We would walk along the side of the road to our shortcut...and climb the 173 steps to the top. The up climb is of course more challenging than the downhill, and even more so with the load on our backs.

Once the stairs were finished, we weren't done yet! We still had to climb up the steep road to our building, then three flights of stairs to the apartment. We regarded this trek as our exercise workout, and a way of keeping us healthy. Change your perspective, and you change how you engage life! 

Shopping was an adventure in the beginning. Besides Romana, almost everyone else we encountered spoke only Croatian. We should have anticipated that fewer people would speak English in the smaller Croatian towns.

While English is widely spoken in the cities, we naively thought this would carry through to the smaller tourist towns along the coast.

The language did present real difficulties at first, but it didn't take long to figure out the necessary work-arounds to become quite functional. We downloaded a Croatian language app and learned many basic words and phrases. The Google Translate app was invaluable for live conversations, and the camera function was incredible for scanning signs and labels. This was most helpful with shopping and directions.

Then there were a number of product differences we discovered. Egg cartons came in a box of 10 instead of 12. The descriptors used for cheese and yogurt products were problematic at times. What looked like feta turned out to be a light yogurt spread. A Google translation actually identified fish sauce as a component in our blueberry juice! Needless to say, this wasn't accurate.

Some supermarkets require that you weigh and price tag your own vegetables and fruit. The check-out ladies seemed a little frustrated that we did not know this when we showed up at the register without the required prices. They brought us back to the vegetable area and used hand signals to show us how to operate the self-service scale and tag machine. We became pros!

Our apartment location on the hillside meant most of the village lay below us. As we walked through the neighborhood, it was apparent that a transformation was happening. We found an eclectic mix of old world and ultra modern homes. The newer stock of homes built over the last 15 years are beginning to change the look of the village. New home designs seem to favor the clean, simple lines made famous by architect Frank Lloyd Wright. 

Croatia's entry into the European Union in 2013 was a game changer for the coast. Croatia's stunning coastline is being discovered by Europeans who are priced out of their own markets back home. Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, this trend will likely only accelerate in the coming years. We just hope that the integrity of the Croatian culture survives, and thrives, through this transition.

When heading to restaurants and supermarkets, we chose to cross the busy street at the bottom of the village neighborhoods and take the longer, slower, pathway along the crushed-rock beaches. Our treks along the unspoiled coastline took us past inlet after inlet of clear blue water, with such vibrant colors that they seemed almost unreal at times.

Opportunities for sunbathing or dipping in the pristine water were innumerable, as every step presented an inviting spot to lay down a towel and enjoy the sea. The water is still a little cool in May, so swimming really starts in early June. Then the summer heat makes the water temperature feel refreshing.

There's hardly anyone around through the end of the third week in May, and for the most part, we had the area to ourselves. In some ways, it felt like getting to live on a beautiful movie set just before filming starts.

As we strolled up and down the shoreline, we saw moorings for hundreds of boats and yachts. It seems that some of the big excursion operations store their boats in the smaller towns, where it's likely much cheaper. The yachts range in size and design, and the variety increased significantly as we got deeper into June. 

The stretch of water between Suhi Potok and the Island of Brac has a steady stream of ferries, smaller cruise ships, excursion boats, and yachts of all sizes. Watching the action on the water from our balcony was one of our favorite pastimes. We were so spoiled!

Suhi Potok is a quaint little village, but does not have much in the way of restaurants. We had to head to our neighboring towns of Mali Rat and Dugi Rat, which we walked to on our coastal route path. We mostly cook all of our own meals at home, but do enjoy checking out a local restaurant for its cultural vibe. Arriving in early May meant most of the restaurants didn't open until early June. 

On one of our walks, we discovered Konoba (Croatian for tavern or restaurant) Poseijdon. Servers there spoke English, and we were told they would be opening the following week--one of the few early-season restaurants to open in late May. We pounced on the opportunity, and returned several days later.

We heard their claim to fame was their homemade pizza. The family's grandmother makes the dough from scratch daily, and the grandson creates the pie from there. We tried their vegetarian 12-inch/30 cm pizza, and it did not disappoint! The crust was perfectly crafted. As the only patrons at lunch, we enjoyed our own private restaurant a few yards from the sea. What a treat! Pizza and mixed salad for two, including tip, cost a total of $17.

Later when the weather really heated up, we used the shaded seating at Posejdon as our base for Rainman to have a cup of coffee and use their free wifi while Tricia swam. The sea was crystal clear with gentle waves, surprisingly cold, and quickly deep not far from shore. It was easy to spot small fish using the face mask we brought for just such an opportunity. The beautiful scenery added to the perfect sense of paradise. 

A walk a little further up the coast toward Omis we found another favorite restaurant called Zazu. Here we met one of the owners, Pjerino (who spoke English quite well), and we became quick friendly acquaintances. His fiancé is the chef, and together they have created a special dining experience.

Zazu is a trendy establishment on a small peninsula that juts out into the sea, and the seating area provides a gorgeous view. Making the spot even more special, a playful pod of dolphins are frequent visitors. The prices are decidedly more expensive than Poseijdon, but the seaside ambience and quality of the menu offerings is outstanding. 

Zazu's owners are meticulous in designing every element of the restaurant experience, from ingredients and menu items to decor and furniture. They pour their heart and soul into their place and research everything. We ordered gourmet burgers (a veggie and a double beef pattie) and a huge serving of sweet potato fries. Each plate was beautifully presented and came with the traditional chef's signature swirl. Food, drinks, and tip came to a total of about $28.

One note: Both restaurants accepted credit cards, but the Croatian system does not allow for the tip to be included on the card. Tips are cash only, so we made sure to have some with us whenever we were heading out to partake.

We have no regrets choosing Suhi Potok as our Croatian base. The smaller village forced us to immerse more fully in the language and culture than we might have if we'd taken a place in Split. In some ways, one could say we had the best of all worlds--an authentic embedded Croatian experience with easy access to all of the more commercial sights whenever we wanted to explore ... and explore we did!

Now to share our adventures during our two month stay in Croatia. Our first was to head north to visit the Diocletian Palace and Old Town Split. There is no doubt, we had big expectations--and hoped for a great start to our Croatian experience!

Baptism by fire, as they say! As we said, we intentionally didn't have a car. Croatia has a well-developed public bus system, and we were going to test that notion. Easier said than done! Catching a bus in a foreign country is difficult enough, but English is not widely spoken in the smaller Croatian villages or by all bus drivers.

Luckily, our landlord's son, Drago, who lives off-site in Split, spoke English. During our stay he was available to answer questions via WhatsApp or by phone, though we tried not to take advantage of his time. He was able to provide the bus name, approximate schedule, and the location of the bus stops we needed to reach our destination.

On paper, it all seemed quite straightforward... get to the bus stop, pay for the $2 bus ticket, get off at the main bus stop in Split.

Not so fast! We did a little more investigating to be sure there were no hidden variables... and discovered there were many!

Pjerino, our English-speaking local restauranteur from Zazu, provided further details for our bus adventure. He informed us that the city bus we saw pass by did not service our local Suhi Potok stop.

We needed to look for a privately-owned Dalmatina Bus that did not have a bus number--only a destination descriptor that wasn't always the same. (There had been a turf battle between the city bus company and the local municipalities, and the city got rid of several of their smaller stops.) Important information to know!

He also gave us a heads-up on the name of our destination stop, the one closest to the Diocletian Palace gates. The Google Maps app on the phone gave us an indication of when were getting close. Since the bus does not announce stops, we had to develop our own way of anticipating when we would reach the right one.  

Once at our Pazar stop, we found the local Pekara, or bakery. We ordered sour cherry pastries, a delicious find in Croatia. This would prove to be our first stop on visits to Split, and one we looked forward to!

Next, we changed the destination on Google Maps to the Golden Gate of the Palace and followed the suggested route. Success!

In researching our options to explore Old Town and the Diocletian Palace, we were happy to discover that Airbnb Experiences offered several comprehensive experiences with reputable guides at very reasonable prices ($17 each).

This was convenient and reassuring, because our initial online searches showed that many of the excursions could not be reliably booked. Pre-season bookings are hit and miss and contact inquiries are unresponsive at times.

We were instructed to meet our guide in front of the Golden Gate of the Palace. Our tour was conducted by a gifted local historian, Boris. We happened to be the only participants in this particular time slot that day.

Boris was personable and passionate about his role, and was pleased to answer all of our questions during the private tour. 

The Golden Gate is one of four access gates to the Diocletian Palace:  Golden (north gate), Silver (east Gate), Bronze (south gate), and Iron (west gate). The Golden Gate was originally the primary ceremonial entrance and exit used by Roman Emperor Diocletian and his family.

Before we entered the Palace, Boris gave us a historical orientation to the area, including the periods before and after the Roman occupation. His summary provided a solid foundation of knowledge for understanding the context of what we were about to see.

Diocletian had the Palace built (295 - 305 AD) to serve as his retirement residence. He was the first Roman Emperor to retire from office. The Palace location was purposely chosen to be close to the Dalmatia provincial capital of Salona. The Palace and Old Town are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Old Town Split was built within the Palace walls and occupies about half the grounds. The Diocletian Palace was so much more than a palace. Almost half the footprint housed a sizable Roman Garrison. A detailed model of the original Palace has now been developed. Today, more than 1,000 people still live in the Old Town. 

Watching over the Palace entrance is a giant 128 ft/8.5-metre statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin. Gregory is a hero to Croatians for rebelling against the Catholic Church's requirement during the 10th Century that services be held only in Latin. He introduced the Croatian language in religious services after the Great Assembly in 926.

Legend has it that rubbing the towering statue's big toe brings good luck, and the digit is worn to a golden sheen from years of superstitious rubbing. Who were we to question this wisdom, and besides, what did we have to lose? Rub the toe, check!

Gregory's statue was originally housed in the Palace in the Split Peristyle square. It was removed by occupying Italian forces during WWII (1941). Restoration efforts after the war relocated the statue to its present location at the Golden Gate entrance.

The Palace layout is essentially divided by two traverses across the city--an east-west one connecting the Silver and Iron Gates, and a north-south traverse connecting the Golden and Brass Gates. The southern part of the Palace held the Emperor's residences and is decidedly more ornate. The northern sector housed the garrison and servants.

As we entered the Golden Gate, we were treated to a spontaneous Roman gauntlet. Young men dressed in period costume provide photo opps for tourists, with the hope of making some pocket money for their efforts.

The corridors and alleys created a decided maze-like structure. Everywhere we looked, we were surrounded by beautiful white marble and travertine-like stone, and the streets were washed clean and free of litter.

The Diocletian Palace is the most complete Roman palace in the world. This wasn't like the ruins we had seen in Greece or other parts of Europe. The restoration and upkeep of this site is outstanding, though purists might disagree.

We entered the heart of the Palace, called the Peristyle. The area looks like a Roman forum straight out of the movies. The Emperor and his family would address their subjects from the balcony, located at the far end and looking out over the expansive space.

Beneath the balcony we saw the entrance to the sub-structures of the Palace Cellars. Boris let us know that we would conclude our tour with an exploration of the basements.

While wandering around the Peristyle, there was a buzzing in the crowd of something about to happen. After several minutes of anxious waiting and positioning ourselves up front near the balcony, we were pleasantly surprised when trumpets began to blare. One by one soldiers began to march out, followed by the Emperor and his wife.

The entrance was heralded by all the Roman pomp and circumstance one would expect of a Roman Emperor. We were privileged to witness the re-enactment of the Emperor's first welcome address of the summer? We couldn't believe our luck of being in the right place at just the right time.

To the left of the balcony area, we saw Diocletian's Mausoleum. Keep in mind, these structures were built prior to Rome's sanctioning the Church. The mausoleum was later modified and became known as St. Domnius Cathedral. The magnificent bell tower was only added in the 14th Century AD. Pope John Paul II visited the Cathedral in 2000.

Diocletian was a big fan of Egyptian and Greek artifacts and decoration. He brought 12 granite sphinxes and quite a number of granite columns from Egypt to be included in the layout of his Palace.

Three remaining 3,500-year old sphinxes can be found in the Peristyle, Jupiter's Temple, and the Split Museum. Greek artifacts and designs are also seen embedded on many of the Palace walls.

The Temple of Jupiter is located just west of the Peristyle, originally used to worship the Roman god, Jupiter. The Temple was renamed St. John's Church and converted into a Christian Baptistery in the 6th Century. One of the ancient granite sphinxes guards the entrance.

Unfortunately, unlike the sphinx in the Peristyle, this one is quite damaged. Sarcophagi of two of Split's Archbishops were later housed in the Baptistery. A bronze statue of St. John is visible as you enter the Temple.

As the tour continued, we climbed the stairs of the Peristyle Balcony and headed into the Vestibule Entrance that marks the beginning of the Imperial Apartments. The area was domed and stood more than 50 ft/17 m tall.

During Roman times, the Vestibule was the official entry to the royal living quarters. Boris described its decorative splendor of the time, all meant to provide an impressive first impression for the important visitors. 

Immediately upon entering the Vestibule, we were greeted by the sound of powerful tenor voices filling the rotunda. A small group of three tenors were performing inspiring and rousing local folk songs from their Croatian repertoire. It seems these groups perform traditional Dalmatian songs in the Vestibule around noon every day during the summer season.

The acoustics of the rotunda structure are superb for a cappella groups, leaving us with the proverbial chills! Again, our timing was impeccable...

Moving on, we entered the Imperial apartments area. The upper floor of the apartments are quite damaged from years of above-ground exposure. We walked along the original outer southern wall of the apartments, more than 120 ft/40 m long.

The lower ground floor is much more intact and preserved. This southern flank of the Palace was designed to offer beautiful sea views of the Adriatic, with 42 windows and three large balconies.

As we left the Imperial apartments, we headed back outside to the beautiful Fruit Square. Dramatic baroque architecture surrounds and frames the area.

The square used to be the major fruit and vegetable market for the locals--hence the name. A statue of Marko Marulic, celebrated as the father of Croatian literature, is located near the center of the square. 

After Fruit Square, we walked over to People's (Pjaca) Square, a much bigger gathering plaza. This open area became a very popular community meeting place starting in the 14th Century. Our guide provided an interesting anecdote: The square historically had gathering zones depending on your age, sex, and marital status. Community members migrated through the zones as they aged and got married.

The People's Square has more of a Renaissance feel. The impressive clock tower was built in the 15th Century on top of an ancient Roman tower from Diocletian times. The 15th Century Old Town City Hall is very nicely preserved as an ethnographic museum.

The square is also home to the ornate Cindro Palace, a Baroque building that housed one of the most powerful Split families in the 17th Century.

We made our way back over to the waterfront, known as the Riva (more on this area later). From here, we have access to the immaculately preserved Palace substructures. We entered through the Bronze Gate southern entrance to the Palace.

This entrance is also known as the "Sea Gate," because the original southern flank was built right next to the sea. Scholars believe that the Sea Gate was an entry for boats entering and leaving the Palace Cellars. 

A substantial part of the Cellars was buried in trash and debris for centuries. Ironically, this resulted in most of the structure to be the most well-preserved areas of the Palace. A large section of the Cellars is now open to the public. 

As we entered this sub-structure, we were struck by the scale. The awesome barrel-vaulted ceilings towered above us as we walked. Once inside, there are several side vaults that lead to beautifully preserved parts of the original Palace. It was inspiring to see the original architecture and artifacts. 

The western part of the basements was especially well preserved, because it was more buried than the eastern section. According to archeologists, the western basements were dark and damp and closed off. The western basements were opened in 1959.

The eastern section is described as being much more airy and ventilated, given that their hallways were built around four large open courtyards. The eastern basement halls were only opened in 1996. Over the centuries, some of the structures had collapsed. This sector was much more exposed to the elements. 

As we walked up the stairs headed back toward the Peristyle, our guide threw in a little popular culture. The blockbuster HBO series, Game of Thrones, had several scenes filmed in the Diocletian Palace. The entrance stairway was featured in a scene showing Daenerys descending into the dragon lair.

Not far from this location, several of the narrow corridors and alleys were used in the Meereen Slave Revenge scenes, showing the Sons of Harpy waiting for the Unsullied.

Once back in the Peristyle Square, we headed back to the Golden Gate entrance. There was no doubt we'd just skimmed the surface of this magnificent introduction to Split.

We thanked Boris for this great orientation, knowing we'd be back for a more in-depth solo-exploration. Diocletian Palace is like a great movie that you just have to see again and again! 

The modern city of Split literally sits on the doorstep of the Diocletian Palace. Over numerous visits, we explored the city end to end, meaning lots of bus trips and plenty of walking!

The area of Split was actually first settled long before Diocletian built his Palace. The original settlement was part of the Greek colony of Aspalathos sometime between the 3rd and 2nd Centuries BC. Around 650 AD, Split succeeded Salona as the new capital of the Roman Province of Dalmatia.

After the collapse of the Roman Empire, the area fell under the control of the Byzantine Empire. The Croats arrived during this very turbulent time.

Over the next millennium, the territory was repeatedly challenged by various powers: the Kingdom of Venice, the Ottomans, Napoleon, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Split has been a strategic maritime port throughout this history. Under the Romans, it was called Spalatum. It was only after WWI, when Croatia joined the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, that the Croatian name of Split became official.

But that's enough history for now...

As is the case with most tourists, we were immediately drawn to the Riva Promenade. The Riva is a wide pedestrian boardwalk that stretches from the eastern boundary of the Diocletian Palace all the way to the end of the Port Authorities building near Marjan Hill.

The design of this spacious walking zone is thoughtful, functional, and inviting. The waterfront section that runs along the Adriatic shoreline is at least 40 ft/13 m wide and accommodates numerous boating excursion sales booths. Tourists can purchase island excursion tickets and immediately step on the boat, all within a few feet/meters.

Vendors try to entice and satisfy travelers with tour packages to various island destinations: Blue Cave, Blue Lagoon, 5-Island, 3-Island, and Sunset Cruises.

From this launch location in Split, excursions visit most of the major islands: Brac, Hvar, Vis, Korcula, Solta, and Drvenik. Individual tickets range from $45 - $120 per person, depending of the duration and distance.

About 40 ft/13 m from the waterfront is a beautiful palm-lined walkway ideal for a scenic stroll. Shady benches provide a relaxing place to take in great views of the harbor, a diverse array of boats, and the busy hum of action on the Promenade (about 40 ft/13 m wide).

The Riva's vibrant restaurant/vendor corridor (about 120 ft/40 m wide) is alive with activity. The sea-side is lined with vendor booths selling everything from gourmet olive oil and spices, to folk crafts and unique artisan creations.

Small outdoor restaurants line the Riva area closest to the buildings, extending for almost half a kilometer!  Each one is unique, but all are tastefully decorated with potted plants, and many have comfortable, shaded lounge seating--like you're relaxing in your own living room!

The view is spectacular, and lively music creates a festive vibe. These eateries are packed with patrons for lunch, and especially popular in the evenings. 

The Riva is a special marriage of history and modern living. With Old Town buildings as a backdrop for a lively combination of commerce, this clearly serves as an important public gathering spot in Split.  On the long list of offerings on the Riva, add people watching! 

Leaving the Riva, we explored the Split Ferry Port. This Port serves large ferries that take cars, passengers, bicycles, and pets to all the main Croatian islands and some of the Italian ports.

The ferry piers are a short ten-minute walk to the south from the Riva. Eight major ferry companies operate at here, with service to 25 destinations. They offer anywhere from 33 to 98 journeys per day, depending on the season. 

The Port even has a free toilet, signed as WC for Water Closet, and it was clean! Most city toilets charge about a dollar for access. Some are coin-operated, an inconvenience if you don't have the change. Some are staffed by an attendant who takes your money, and can break a bill. These staffed facilities are maintained and sure to be clean.

As we walked around the city, we regularly saw logos and emblems for the local football (soccer) team, HNK Hajduk Split. There's no doubt this city loves its soccer heroes!

On one of our visits, an older lady warned us to be careful walking on the roads: The team had won a big game the night before, so drivers may be hung over or tired. Needless to say, we heeded her warning and were extra careful maneuvering the busy streets.

Our next exploration in Split took us north of the Riva to Marjan Hill. As we approached, it was clear this place has great significance for the City. The Croatian flag could be seen flying proudly near the highest point of the hill.

According to locals, they detested the former Yugoslav flag when it flew on Marjan Hill. Along the way to the top, we were treated to a very special view of St. Jerome Church.

The top of Marjan Hill is about two miles/three km from the city center. The hill is actually part of a protected park, which is very well managed and widely used by all ages for walking, hiking, cycling, and jogging.

Benches are available all over the Park. We saw many families, who seemed to really appreciate this natural space so close to the city.

The walkway up Marjan Hill is a perfectly maintained hard surface. For the more athletic, there's a final stairway of about 314 steps up to Telegrin, the highest point on the hill. The views of the Split Harbor and Old Town are truly spectacular, and well worth the effort. We then really enjoyed the hike down, as we got to see the view a second time, and it was easier than going up!

The Split Pazar was another highlight for us as we explored the city. Pazar gives tourists an excellent way to experience the authentic vibe of day-to-day life in Split. The Pazar actually owes its existence to the original Fruit Market Square located in the Old City. The Fruit Market site was becoming too small for the expanding population, and for the rapid increase in available produce.

Pazar is a sizable fruit and vegetable market, though you'll find a lot more here: cheese, bread, olives, olive oil, flowers, traditional arts and clothing, Croatian fast food, coffee-by-the-cup, beer & wine, cured meats, and freshly butchered meats.

The Market is open daily from 8am-3pm, though we found that things start to wind up earlier. Located next to the eastern wall of the Diocletian Palace and our local city bus stop, it was a convenient and pleasant ending before heading home.

Our Pazar visits were sensory overloads. The sights, the sounds, the colors, the smells, all join together for a most enjoyable experience. You'll see it all--haggling, shouting, dancing to music, singing, smoking, serious conversation, bread baking, frustration, joy, eating, and more. Locals say this is the spirit of Dalmatia. It's hard to argue with that.

If Marjan Hill is the lungs of Split, then Pazar is the authentic heartbeat! This is a don't miss, so bring your senses, comfortable shoes, and a big shopping bag.

Croatia is blessed with eight National Parks, and has an impressive conservation reputation.

In fact, Croatia has over 400 protected areas, covering about nine percent  of the country!

Both Krka National Park and Plitvice National Park were high on our itinerary wish list. Decisions needed to be made. We didn't have the time or budget to visit both.

Both parks have spectacular waterfalls and natural vistas. Plitvice National Park is bigger than Krka, but lies some 150 miles/240 km from our small home base town near Split.

Krka National Park, on the other hand, is easily accessible from Split, and has one of the largest waterfalls in Croatia.

Researching our potential Krka National Park itinerary also revealed a long list of very interesting experiences and sites:

Sixteen Notable Waterfalls ... Skradinski Buk ... Nicola Tesla Connection ... Visovac Island Monastery ... Krka-Skradin River Cruise ... Church  of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary ... Skradin Old Town ... Skradin Waterfront ... Turina Fortress ... Wine Tasting Experiences

For us, it was an easy decision. Destination ... Krka National Park!

Join us as we share why Krka National Park is such a special place.

Krka National Park and the ancient village of Skradin are about 60 miles/100 km from Split. Staying true to our mission to explore the Dalmatian coast, our choice of Krka instead of Plitvice was also due to its Dalmatia location.

In researching the various options for an escorted tour to Krka, we chose to book a tour with Airbnb Experiences (AE). Gray Line Tours was another serious contender. But, the AE reviews and pricing were too good to ignore.

Our excursion bus left from Split at about 8:30 am, and we were scheduled to be back by 5:30 pm that evening.

To our surprise, more than 50 travelers joined the tour--mostly European. Our modern bus was very comfortable, with a lot of space and great air conditioning.

Our Split-Krka travel time was scheduled to take about eighty minutes.

Here's the most direct routing from Split to Krka National Park (requires tolls):

The excursion bus departed right on time!

About fifteen minutes out of Split, our guide, Lovro (Lawrence in English), pointed out that we were passing the famous Klis Fortress (7 miles/12 km from Split).

The fortress has an almost 2,000 year history, serving valiantly as a buffer between Mediterranean Europe and invaders crossing the Balkans.

The original fortress was built by the Illyrian tribe of Dalmatia, and lies at a key point in a critical mountain pass. Many of the Croatian kings used it as their seat of power.

Kliss is most famous for being a part of the strategic defense of  Europe during the Ottoman European Wars.

The fortress also has a notable fictional history: The Game of Thrones series used the Kliss Fortress as a backdrop for scenes of Meereen City.

We entered Krka National Park at the Lozovac entrance (most popular entrance). There was quite a bit of traffic, even at 9:50 am. Luckily, our tour bus was allowed expedited access to the park.

Our guide headed to the ticket office to buy park tickets for the group.

Here's a quick orientation to Krka National Park (KNP):

Tickets in hand, we were off to the hiking trail. Once at the trail head, our guide provided a short orientation to the park, and what to expect on our upcoming hike.

The most popular tourist trails are the Lozovac-Skradinski Buk (875 meters) and the Skradinski Buk Trails (1,900 meters). Our group followed the Skradinski Buk Trail.

Ease of access from the main Lozovac entrance, and their great views of the Skradinski Buk waterfall, make these trails the perfect choice for visitors on a tighter schedule. 

Avid hikers are in for a real treat! The park has 22 well-groomed trails available:

This scenic Skradinski Buk Trail wound its way through a maze of small islets and water channels in the general direction of the spectacular Skradinski Buk waterfall.

We were all amazed at the mesmerizing blue waters of the Krka River.

The area is covered in limestone that causes calcium carbonate to dissolve in the water, creating gorgeous layers of travertine as evaporation occurs.

Along the waterways of Krka, vibrant vegetation is home to 1,186 species/sub-species. The sights and sounds of abundant life surrounded us we made our way along the trail.

Beautiful wooden walkways kept us close to the water and the lush ecosystem. We crossed paths with several minor waterfalls, each with their own remarkable context. Pictures... pictures... everywhere!

We were headed for the star of the show: The Skradinski Buk waterfalls, which have notable historical significance.

The falls are world famous for being the location where distinguished Croatian Nicola Tesla pioneered the Krka Hydropower Plant in 1895. The second hydro electric plant in the world opened two days later at Niagra Falls.

Finally, we got our first views of the Skradinski Buk waterfall, and were in awe of its spectacular beauty. As we inched our way along the crowded bridge, we joined the mass of people already gathered to see this wonder.

The pictures can't quite tell the story. It was really special to be in the presence of such a powerful force of nature! The waterfall cascades about 140 ft/45 m as it splashes through several travertine ledges before crashing into the river below in grand style.

Our Krka River adventure wasn't over just yet. We discovered that our park ticket also included a nice boat ride to the ancient town of Skradin.

The boat ferry departs roughly every half hour. The one-way trip takes about 25 minutes.

The boat was very crowded, but it was nice to relax in the shade after our hike. The cruise passed by lush green forest coverage on both sides of the river. Along the way, we also saw quite a few wild swans feeding near the water's edges.

Five minutes into the trip, we saw something we've never seen before--a strange rainbow-colored shape in the sky! It had to be a reflection off the moisture rising from all the falls. It was a magical sight!

A taxi boat services the Skradin-Sibenik/Sibenik-Skradin route on a regular basis. Sibenik is located on the Adriatic Sea on the banks of the Krka River estuary. The taxi boat takes about an hour to make the trip (approximately 20 km).

Adding a side excursion to Sibenik would have been a wonderful complement, but our time was limited. Sibenik is one of only five cities in the world to have two UNESCO World Heritage Sites--St. Nikola Fortress and St. Jacob's Cathedral.

As we entered the ancient village of Skradin, we saw row upon row of beautiful yachts. Skradin is clearly a popular stop for boaters exploring coastal Croatia. There was plenty of boat traffic near the marina.

The little village of Skradin also has quite the history!

At one point, Skradin was the capital of Croatia and Bosnia (13th Century AD).

The hill above the town still has ruins of an ancient fortification called the Fortress of Turina. The fortification structures were mostly built during Roman times.

Archeologists have speculated that Turina may have been built on top of an older hill fort constructed by a local Illyrian tribe (pre-730 BC). The Illyrians were eventually eclipsed by the Corinthians (Greek) before the rise of the Roman. Empire.

The hike from the village up to the fortress took about 15 minutes--accessible from the town center. The opportunity to see this archeological site was well worth the climb!

The panoramic views from Turina Fortress were simply spectacular! The panorama covers most of Skradin village, the harbor with all its fancy yachts, and an inspiring view of the Krka River.

Most tourists miss this gem, instead opting for a wine-tasting experience and a tour of the Old Town. That was an easy choice for us!

On our way back down into the village, we came across a few beautifully decorated restaurants away from the waterfront. They appear to be local homes that were turned into restaurants. Potted plants and flowers line the walls and terraces.

As we reached the waterfront, it was time for a refreshing ice cream. The prices were very reasonable here. A single scoop was priced at about $1.40. What a nice treat after a warm hike to the fortress!

The waterfront promenade was lined with picturesque small outdoor restaurants, just feet away from million dollar yachts and boats. Considering the location, the prices are very reasonable--about 80% of American restaurant rates.

For the more budget-oriented traveler, there were also many grab-and-go options away from the waterfront.

From the waterfront, we headed up Main Street toward the town center. The street was lined with Venetian-style houses and all kinds of small local shops.

Reaching the southern end of Main Street, we entered Mall Gospa Square, one of the central gathering points for the community. Our eyes were immediately drawn to the baroque Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

The church was built by the Venetians (1758) on top of the ruins of an old Turkish Mosque. Once inside, we were treated to ornate paintings on the vaulted ceilings. The organ at the back of the church dates back to 1776 and is considered a national treasure.

Our visit to Skradin and the Krka National Park left us wanting more. Ideally, we would have had more time to explore these special places. Sadly, the tour was at an end.

The park had so many interesting hikes and lookout points we didn't get to experience. One could also spend a whole day exploring all the nooks and crannies in Skradin. A taxi boat excursion over to Sibenik would have been superb.

As they say, so many things to do, yet so little time!

Any which way, Skradin and Krka National Park will always be great travel memories for us.

If you're looking for beautiful scenery and historical charm in a special natural setting, then a visit to Krka National Park is the place for you!

As drove home, we shared our best pics and videos, and reminisced about our experience. What a fun day!

Needless to say, we highly recommend the Krka National Park experience to anyone touring central Croatia.

Croatia is blessed with 10 UNESCO Heritage Sites. Trogir easily made that list ... and for very good reason!

Researching our Trogir itinerary revealed a long list of very interesting experiences and sites:

 ... City of Masters ... Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance Architecture ... St. Lawrence Cathedral ... Game of Thrones Intrigue ... St. Sebastian Church  ... Radovan Sculptures ... Church of St. Dominic ... Kamerlengo Castle ... Ciovo Island ... Trogir Green Market ... UNESCO Heritage Site

Join us as we share why Trogir is such a special place.

Trogir is a small island city only 17 miles/27 km north of modern day Split.

Luckily for us, the public busses regularly ran between Split and Trogir--and the tickets were cheap. Our home base in Croatia was the small seaside town of Suhi Potok, just south of Split. We wanted to be in Trogir before the big crowds arrived, so we got going bright and early.

First, we caught the bus in Suhi Potok to Split.

Next, after a quick visit to the ATM, and a treat from our favorite pastry shop, we headed over to the bus and settled in for the scenic drive.

We could have taken a commercial bus from the main Split bus station, but they had limited departure times. The public bus had a more convenient schedule, with buses leaving every 45 minutes.

The Sukoisanka public bus stop was about a 15 minute walk north of the Diocletian Palace complex. There, we caught the super-sized double-length #37 bus (Split-Airport-Trogir).

This leg of the journey only cost $3 for a one-way ticket! The ride took about 45 minutes, but it was a great opportunity to see more of the great views north of Split. 

Every building had its own history just waiting to be told ... and we were ready to hear all the stories!

Trogir has been continuously inhabited for over 2,300 years. The Greeks settled these islands in the 3rd Century BCE. Roman and Byzantine influence began 300 years later and ended during the crusades. 

Control of area later passed to the Saracens, the Venetians, the French, and the Austro-Hungarians.

Today, this UNESCO Heritage Site is widely considered the most intact medieval town in Central Europe.

Trogir has it all ... and we wanted to see everything for ourselves:

Located on a very small island, Trogir is less than 100 yards from the mainland. The larger island of Ciovo lies about 500 yards beyond Trogir, extending further into the Adriatic Sea. These islands are connected to the mainland by a series of small bridges.

The Old Town is extremely compact, roughly a half mile long and no more than one third of a mile wide.

About 13,000 people live in this small municipality--and love every minute!

Popular Culture Pro Tip:

Trogir also has a fictional history that many Game of Thrones (GOT) fans follow!

Various sites around Trogir were used as backdrops for scenes depicting the Town of Qarth.

Game of Thrones described the Town of Qarth as "The Greatest City that Ever Was or Will Be."

For some, this could be an apt description of Trogir as well!

Crossing the small bridge from the mainland to Trogir, we made our way to the iconic North Gate. This 15th Century entrance is also known as the Land Gate.

A sculpture of St. John, Trogir's Patron Saint, can be seen atop the Renaissance archway. Just below the sculpture is St. Mark's Lion.

Unfortunately, the space above the arch is often used to hang event announcements, and the Lion was covered by a banner for an upcoming triathlon on the day of our visit.

Trogir is known as the City of Masters, largely because so many master artists and architects were active in creating the buildings and cathedrals of the city.

Moving beyond St. John's Gate, there was no doubt we were walking through a living medieval city!

The cobbled lanes seemed to be part of a nicely planned maze. When the Greeks originally planned Trogir, they were careful to maintain a disciplined orthogonal street plan.

Approaching the main town square (Narodni Trg), we started to see small outdoor restaurants and a few commercial concessions. Space was at a premium.

One concession was of particular interest! According to online reviews, Bella Gelato had the best gelato in town ... so we were ready to test the recommendation! 

Bella had so many gelato choices. After several samples, we finally decided on salted caramel and a ricotta with orange peel. Wow! Perfection on a hot day!

As we got closer to Narodni Square, we passed the Garagnin-Fanfogna Palace Complex--two blocks of Gothic, Baroque, and Romanesque architecture. Parts of the complex now serve as the City Museum.

The Bell Tower of St. Lawrence Cathedral was in sight as we rounded the next corner.

We had reached Narodni Trg Square, and the beating heart of Trogir.

It was easy to see why National Geographic included Trogir on its Top 10 Island Cities list in 2015!

Every section of Narodni Trg Square oozes charm ... and history!

In order to better understand the layout of the square, here's a quick orientation to the major sites:

Our Narodni Square exploration started at the western end. The extravagant 15th Century Cipiko Family Palaces dominate that side of the square.

The palace complex was designed by the famed Croatian architects, Alesia and Firentinac.  Much of the Cipiko Palace exterior artwork was created by Croatian Master Duknovic. 

The Cipiko Palaces are also known for their exquisite Gothic window designs.

As we turn to the Northern end of the square, we see the inspiring Cathedral of St. Lawrence.

The dramatic 13th Century West Portal of the St. Lawrence Cathedral was clearly the most popular attraction in the square. Hundreds of tourists queued to enter the cathedral through this intricately decorated portal.

The ornate Romanesque-Gothic design of the West Portal was created by Radovan, one of Croatia's Master Sculptors.

Construction on St. Lawrence Cathedral started in 1193, and continued for almost 400 years. This church is also known as St. John's Cathedral by the locals.

The current cathedral was built on top of an old basilica destroyed by the Saracens in 1123.

Interestingly, the history of the foundations goes back even further! Two previous churches were built at this exact location in the 5th and 7th Centuries. Both churches were destroyed by invaders. 

Excavations have shown possible earlier Greek and Roman structures below this spot.

The Bell Tower rises well above the St. Lawrence Cathedral and dominates the square.

The tower was constructed between the late 1300s and the end of the 16th Century and displays several architectural styles--Gothic, Venetian Gothic, and Renaissance.

Apparently, the views from the top are spectacular, but access is generally not available. Accounts of the climb up the tower describe a difficult and narrow ascent. 'Definitely not an attraction for Rainman.

Narodni Square is crammed with restaurant umbrellas, making it difficult to photograph St. Lawrence Cathedral and the surrounding buildings. We had to settle for partial images.

Moving to the eastern end of Narodni Square, we pass the Town Hall building. 

The history of the Town Hall building is more recent. This structure was completed in the late 19th Century and  incorporates some of the original Rektor's Palace structures of the 15th Century.

The Town Hall complex has an impressive Renaissance stairway in the internal courtyard--so impressive, it caught the attention of Game of Thrones location scouts. GOT used the courtyard in a scene where Daenerys asks the Spice King for assistance.

On to the busy southern end of the square!

St. Sebastian Church, with its beautiful Town Clock, stands directly across from the St. Lawrence Cathedral. The church was built in 1476 as a dedicated votive church after the dreaded plague devastated Europe. The interior of the church holds several sarcophagi as reminders of the city's ancient history.

St. Sebastian Church was built on top of the earlier foundations of St. Mary's Church. Today, St. Sebastian also memorializes victims of the recent 1990s war of independence in Croatia.

Although St. Sebastian is no longer an active place of worship, visitors are still welcome to pay their respects.

The 13th Century Town Loggia structure stands adjacent to St. Sebastian. The Loggia was essentially the center for all legal matters in the city.

The building facades and ceiling are beautifully decorated by reliefs completed by Ivan Mestrovic. 

Today, The Town Loggia houses an Ethnographic Museum that showcases famous Croatian sculptures, statues, decorative paintings, antique furniture, and traditional costumes.

The Church of St. Barbara lies just south of the square, next to the Loggia. The entrance is so obscure, it is easy to miss, but make sure not to miss it! This is one of the oldest churches in Trogir.

The pre-Romanesque architecture is very simple, and was built at the beginning of the 9th-10th Century on top of a destroyed earlier church dating back to the 9th Century. The bell tower that rises above the church is designed to hold three bells, but one bell remains today.

The church was originally called the Old Croatian Basilica of St. Martin. The basilica was renamed when the St. Barbara Church on the mainland was destroyed and the congregation relocated to Trogir.

Leaving the immediate vicinity of the main square, we headed to Trogir's Southern Gate.

Once through the gate is a very different view of the city from the promenade. A wide open pedestrian promenade runs next to the Adriatic for about half a mile. Palm trees line the promenade and provide welcome shaded areas along the way.

Restaurants of all kinds extended out from the buildings all the way to the palm trees. This is the place to be seen in Trogir--hip, with a great vibe!

The much bigger island of Ciovo can be see across the water from the promenade, connected to Trogir by a substantial bridge. Ciovo is a popular beach destination for tourists.

As we headed further west on the promenade, we reached the Church and Monastery of St. Dominic.

The Dominicans established an order in Trogir around the 1240s. Church construction was begun in the 1280s and was completed in the late 14th Century.

Much of the Monastery was destroyed during WWII. Fortunately, much of the complex has been restored.

Continuing along the promenade, our attention shifts to a large structure toward the end of the walkway. Kamerlengo Fortress stands guard at the western edge of Trogir's Old Town. This iconic castle is seen on a lot of Trogir tourist brochures.

The castle's tall Veriga Tower was built in the 14th Century and the rest of the fortress was completed in the mid-15th Century.

Veriga Tower was once called the Fortress of Chains. The original tower anchored chains that spanned the waterway between the islands of Trogir and Ciovo.

We paid the $7 entry fee and entered the fortress with good intentions to climb to the top of the castle tower. 

The stairs leading to the upper walkway looked sturdy. So far, so good ...

Reaching the walkway that runs along the castle walls , we got a really nice view of the internal courtyard.

The top of Veriga Tower had an even better view, but required an additional climb. That part of the climb started inside the tower. There was a narrow metal ladder that lead to a rather small opening at the top. The ladder didn't look all that sturdy.

This is where intentions parted ways with reality! Rainman's fear of heights took hold and there was no way to take another step up the ladder.

As we accepted reality (what were we thinking???) and exited the castle, we took another walk up the promenade, this time focused more on the waterway between Trogir and Ciovo.

What a beautiful sight! Boats and yachts lined both sides of the islands. Trogir and Ciovo have become very popular destinations. Maybe some day we'd be back with our own boat!?

With our tour of Trogir Old Town at an end, we headed back across the north-side bridge for a final treat, the Trogir Green Market.

The Green Market lies just across from the main bus station. 'Perfect for a quick meal and a little sightseeing before we left for home.

The market has something for everyone: fresh fruit & vegetables, olive oils, lavender products, fresh flowers, arts & crafts, cheeses, cured meats, clothing, tourist nick knacks, and plenty of Croatian street food stalls.

Green Market is similar in size to the Pazar Market in Split. The sights, sounds, and smells all combine to make for a very interesting and exciting atmosphere.

As we prepared for our Trogir adventure, we came across several excellent reviews of Big Mama's Grill & Food at Green Market. The reviews lived up to all the hype!

Big Mama's had quite an extensive menu, including a variety of toasted panini sandwiches, grilled food, kebabs, tortilla wraps, burgers, and vegetarian options.

We eagerly chose super-sized grilled chicken breast paninis with lettuce, tomatoes, grated cabbage, red onion, and olive oil. Prices were very reasonable at $4.80 each!

Fortunately, we found a a stone bench under a tree facing the river to enjoy our lunch. What could be better than that!?

With our appetites satisfied, we headed to the bus station.

As the Split bus pulled up, we knew we were leaving a very special place. Trogir would always have a place in our hearts.

If you're looking for beautiful scenery ... amazing architecture ... intriguing history ... in a special medieval setting, then Trogir is the place for you! Welcome home!

Heading down to Dubrovnik gave us the chance to see more of rural Croatia. Once again, we spent some time researching excursion options that would give us the best bang for our buck. Our timing wasn't ideal, because many of the bigger providers weren't offering service until June. 

We finally settled on a Dubrovnik excursion offered by South Tours. Their online reviews were excellent and their itinerary was just what we were hoping for--a good mix of guidance and free time. The price was very economical at $71 each.

Our group was asked to meet at the South Tours office in Split Old Town. From there, we headed to our transit vans and met our driver and guide, Harry. After a quick orientation, seven of us piled into the van and we set off to Dubrovnik.

The 138 miles/230 km drive would take four hours between Split and Dubrovnik. Our route would first take us inland as we linked up with the A1 highway that connects Zagreb-to Split-to-Dubrovnik. The roadways were world class all the way, and Croatians drive on the right-hand side of the road. 

For the first hour or so, we headed inland and got to see a lot of the smaller villages and some beautiful farming areas. Croatia's major crops are olives, corn, wheat, oats, rye, sun flowers, and grapes.

Croatians are especially proud of their wines and olives. Ironically, Croatia is now ranked as the 15th largest per capita consumer of beer, which is a big change from 30 years ago.

About 92% of Croatia is still considered rural, with about half the population living in rural areas. Global assessments of Croatian agriculture indicate that Croatia actually under-performs its potential in this sector. This bodes well for the future of Croatia.

Agricultural production revenues currently represent only about 4% of GDP. With better consolidation and organization, small family Croatian farms have a lot of potential for economies of scale. Croatia still imports more agriculture than it exports.

Along our route, we saw some expansive vineyards as we geot closer to the coast again. Regions of Croatia have been producing wine for thousands of years now. Croatia mostly produces white wine, but they are also known for producing quality red wines.

According to 2014 data, Croatia is ranked as 32nd in the world in wine production. The mediterranean climate of Dalmatia is ideal for growing grapes--hot and humid summers combined with mild winters.

Most of the red wine is produced on the Dalmatian coast. Croatians are known for enjoying wine with their meals, often diluting their wine with water or sparkling water. 

One of the oddities of the trip involved a brief crossing through Bosnia & Herzegovina, which meant leaving Croatia and presenting our passports at the border crossing. Until now, travelers have had no way of avoiding this boundary. 

Croatia is engineering a by-pass route to circumvent this barrier. The new route leaves the Croatian mainland a few miles before the Bosnia & Herzegovina border and crosses the brand new Peljesac Bridge onto the Croatian Peljesac Peninsula. The road then travels the length of the peninsula and heads back onto the Croatian mainland at a point beyond the Bosnia & Herzegovina border. 

The Croatian government contracted with a major Chinese Construction Consortium for this mega-project. The government anticipates that the by-pass will be completed by July 2022, on-time and on-budget!

Unfortunately, we missed the by-pass by only six weeks. But it did mean we actually entered Bosnia & Herzegovina and got to notch another country in our passports! 

Once in Bosnia & Herzegovina, we stopped in a very special little seaside town called Neum. The views of this little town come straight out of a tourist catalogue. We stopped at one of the local hotels with an amazing view of the surrounding area.

Our guide told us that Bosnia & Herzegovina prices are significantly lower than Croatia, and encouraged us to consider a trip to visit Mostar for a day. There's a lot of history in Mostar, and it is definitely on our list for a future trip. They have an iconic bridge structure that spans the major river that divides the city. 

As we again entered the Croatian coast, we passed close to the Peljes Peninsula area and saw a number of farming operations cultivating oysters and shell fish just off shore. Oysters and mussels from this area are sold all over Croatia. This area is also quite a tourist attraction for Croatians.

As we got closer to Dubrovnik, we began to see small towns with houses, cars, shops, and more people. The four-hour ride was at an end. All the interesting new sights along the way absolutely helped to pass the time. There's no doubt, traveling by car, bus, or train is a must if you really want to get a feel for a country. Air travel is highly efficient, but you miss so much!

The excitement started to build and everyone was anxious to get their first glimpse of the magical city of Dubrovnik...

Lord Biron called it "The Pearl of the Adriatic," and with good reason. Our biggest fear was that Dubrovnik could never live up to everything we'd heard. It did, and, in fact, actually way exceeded our expectations! The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for very good reason.

Dubrovnik is one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean, especially for cruise travelers. Dubrovnik is a deep water port, so the mega-cruise ships are almost a permanent part of the landscape here.

Our first glimpse of Dubrovnik presented itself in dramatic fashion as we rounded a corner and saw the impressive modern Cruise Port in Gruz. The Port at Gruz has tremendous capacity, and can accommodate up to five cruise ships at a time. Dubrovnik is one of six major international cruise destinations in Croatia: Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Zadar, Sibenik, Split, and Ploce.

Over one million cruise passengers disembark in Dubrovnik each year.

 As we arrived at the look-out point just before Gruz, we were greeted by one of the mega-cruise ships and the impressive modern Fanjo Tudman Bridge.

Dubrovnik is the most popular destination in Croatia. Popular culture is to be blamed--or celebrated--depending on your viewpoint. Star Wars: The Last Jedi used Old Town as a backdrop. HBO's epic series Game of Thrones (GOT) also filmed many scenes in and around the Old Town area. But much more on this later... 

As we crossed the Fanjo Tudman Bridge, Harry started his Dubrovnik orientation: Currently there is no major rail service to Dubrovnik, though this wasn't always the case. There was a narrow-gauge rail system that used to connect Dubrovnik with Mostar, Sarajevo, Zagreb, and Belgrade. The closest train service ends at Place, about two hours north of Dubrovnik.

Bus service has nicely filled the gap left by the lack of long-distance trains. The major bus station lies close to the Port at Gruz. From here, passengers can easily catch a shuttle or a taxi to the famous Old Town area.

Cruise ships also use the Old Town Harbor as a disembarkation point. However, passengers need to be ferried to the Old Town Pier by tender boats. The tenders drop travelers mere yards from the entrance to Old Town!

As we arrived at the parking area near the Old Town walls, we were told that our van would be leaving the area after drop-off. Parking comes at a steep premium near the walls of Old Town.

We were introduced to our Old Town guide and oriented to the Old Town walking tour, which was scheduled to take about 90 minutes. After the guided tour, we were to have free-time for about two and a half hours to explore the city on our own.

First, the tour guide provided us with a detailed history of Old Town.

Dubrovnik was called Ragusa for a good part of its history. The city was originally established by refugees from the nearby Roman city of Epidaurum, fleeing from the crumbling Roman Empire during the 6th and 7th Centuries.

After the Roman decline, the city was controlled by the Byzantine Empire and later by the Kingdom of Venice.

Between the 14th and 19th Centuries, the Republic of Ragusa largely ruled itself. The 1667 earthquake devastated the city, and much of it had to be rebuilt. The Ragusa Republic eventually came under the control of the Kingdom of Dalmatia.

The city later became part of the Yugoslavian Federation, which ended in the War of Independence that started in 1991. Dubrovnik was occupied and heavily damaged during the war.

Dubrovnik currently has a population of only 45,000, but space is quite limited for expansion.

Orientation completed, we headed toward the Ploce Gate entrance on the eastern side of the Old Town Fortress walls. 

After we crossed the stone bridge at the outer Ploce Gate, our attention was drawn to Fort Revelin. This fortification is one of the few ancient structures that survived the 1667 earthquake.

There are five major fortresses and towers that protect Old Town from invaders: Fort Revelin (east), Fort St. John (southeast), Fort Bokar (south), Fort Lovrijenac (southwest), and the Tower of Minceta (north).

Fort Revelin is one of two forts that were built outside the Old Town walls; Fort Lovrijenac lies near the southwestern section of the walls. These detached forts were built outside the walls as extra protection for the perceived weakest areas of the city.

The walls of Old Town are very impressive, rising to a height of 82 ft/ 25 m in places. The thickness of the walls varies greatly from the sea-facing side to the landward side. The landslide defenses are approximately 13 - 20 ft/4 - 6 m wide.

The Dubrovnik walls (1.2 miles/2 km long) were known as one of the best fortified during the Middle Ages, and were never penetrated. Our guide informed us that a separate tour is available to walk on top of the walls. The tour is especially good for bird's eye views of the layout of the city.

Another option for elevated views was the Dubrovnik Cable Car, which offers a 4-minute climb to the top of Srd Hill. Our van driver suggested we skip the $14 tram ride, and promised to take us to an amazing vantage point just south of the city at the end of the tour.

The original fortification only had four gate entrances that needed to be defended: Ploce (east), Pile (west), Peskarija, and Ponta (southeast near St. John Fort). The Buzz Gate (north) was added by the Austrians in 1908.

Today, the Ploce and Pile Gates are the most used by tourists. Both gates have similar fortifications and structures, with both having inner and outer gates. The outer gates are accessed by crossing a stone bridge, while the inner gates are accessed by crossing a drawbridge.

After crossing through the Ploce Gate and its inner gate drawbridge, we truly entered the walled city. Our first view was of the Old Town harbor. To the right, we saw the impressive St. John Fort guarding the southeastern flank of Old Town. The Fort was completed in the 16th Century.

The Maritime Museum sits next to the fort structure. A little to the north of the St. John's Fort, there are a series of vaulted arches identifying the old Arsenal Building. This is where Old Town shipbuilders applied their craft in secret inside the structure. 

At the height of its maritime power, Dubrovnik had almost 700 boats and ships under its protection. This included shoreline fishing boats and almost 250 sea-going vessels. Now vendors line the piers selling all kinds of island excursions. A few restaurants are lucky enough to have concessions with spectacular views of all the action on the water.

Churches in Old Town are numerous, with many varied historical backgrounds. The details on these buildings are exquisite, especially considering their age and how beautifully they have been restored and preserved. 

Next, we pass 10th century Saint Luke's Church, the 16th Century Gothic Church of the Annunciation, and the Church of St. Nicholas. 

The Church of Confraternity Rosario is found a little way down one of the side streets. The Church of St. Sebastian is a small medieval Church built in 1466 to protect residents from the plague.

We make our way to the Stradun (or Placa), the main street in Dubrovnik's old town that connects the Ploce (east) and Pile Gates (west).  Built at the end of the 9th century, it is paved with polished stone blocks. 

Stradun was originally a canal that separated the two rock settlements on which the city was founded in the early Middle Ages. When the canal was later filled in, Stradun became a street.

Stradun ends with Luža Square, surrounded by historic buildings that have stood for centuries.The square is the hub around which life in Dubrovnik has revolved for hundreds of years. It has been, and still is today, a place for locals and visitors alike to gather.

More than 1,000 people still live in Old Town. Our guide notes that living there isn't as romantic as it sounds. Garbage is collected at 3 am, trucks start cleaning the streets at 4 am, and the daily supply trucks begin their deliveries around 5 am.

But it seems the residents wouldn't have it any other way! They find a way to make it work, decorating their porches and balconies for everyday existence. It's like living on a live movie location.

Within Luza Square is the 16th-century architecture of Sponza Palace, whose name derives in Latin to the spot where rainwater was collected. The structure survived the city's 1667 earthquake without damage. 

The Sponza Palace has served in countless capacities over the centuries: armory, customs house, mint, treasury, bank, and business meeting place. 

Today, Sponza is home to the city archives, which holds documents dating back to the 12th century. Of note, the famous Dubrovnik Summer Festival opening ceremony is held here every year. The festival is a grand celebration that celebrates theater and the arts from July 10th - August 25th every year.

One of the city's major sights within Luza Square is the Church of Saint Blaise, the Patron Saint of Dubrovnik. The church was destroyed completely by a devastating fire in 1706. Everything disappeared in flames, except for the Statue of St Blaise, which was saved by some miracle. Reconstructed in 1715, the building architecture displays numerous statuary and ornate details all along its facade.

Leaving Luza Square, we headed up a major offshoot from the Strada running parallel to the eastern boundary of the city: Pred Dvorak. On the left, we saw the unmistakeable Rector's Palace, which was the administrative centre of the Dubrovnik Republic of Ragusa starting in the 14th century. The building has gone through several rounds of rebuilding because of fire, earthquakes, and deterioration. As a result, the building features a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles.

Over the years, the Rector's Palace held an armory, the powder magazine, the watch house, and a prison. Today it houses the Cultural Historic Department of the Dubrovnik Museum. The building's atrium has excellent acoustics, and is often used as a concert venue.

The Pred Vlorom ends in front of the inspiring Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, also called the Dubrovnik Cathedral. The towering elegant dome is a powerful symbol of the city. The impressive front facade of the building greets admirers with four magnificent Corinthian columns. 

The present day version of the Cathedral is built on the site of a series of rebuilds that date all the back to the 7th Century.

Legend has it that the English king, Richard the Lionheart, contributed quite a bit of money to build the reconstruction of the 12th Century version of the Cathedral. Richard was shipwrecked near Dubrovnik when he returned from the third crusade. He really appreciated the assistance provided by his Dalmatian hosts at the time.

We traveled west from the Cathedral using some of the smaller streets to get to the Jesuit Staircase. This is where things get real interesting for Game of Thrones (GOT) fans!

The ornate Baroque staircase towers up toward one of the highest points on the southern end of Old Town. It's worth the climb even if you aren't a GOT fan. Once at the top, we turned to look back down the staircase, imitating Cersei as she stood at the top of the stairs preparing for her famous walk of shame. 

The small square at the top of the stairs is home to the 17th Century Baroque-style St. Ignatius Church. The Church, and its attached buildings, were once used as one of the elite Jesuit Colleges, and modeled after the main Jesuit church in Rome. This square is also used for theatrical productions during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.

We headed back to the Stradun and Luza Square. The Strada is anchored on both ends by two impressive Bell Towers: the Dubrovnik Clock Tower on the eastern end and the Franciscan Monastery Bell Tower on the western side.

As we headed west on the Stradun, our guide informed us that the Stradun and some of the buildings on the avenue had been damaged by mortar fire during the War of Independence. 

Passing through the Stradun to the far western end, we saw the famed Big Onofrio's Fountain. Water was originally brought to the city via Roman aqueduct, and this fountain was the last stop for all that water! The area around the fountain seems to be another gathering point. Traditional Croatian musicians can be seen here entertaining tourists.

Across from the fountain, we saw the Franciscan Monastery and the ornate Saint Saviour Church. This small church has an interesting story: It was originally commissioned by the local Senate after a devastating 1520 earthquake.

The church was meant to celebrate the fact that most of the city was spared, and was completed in 1528. St. Saviour also survived the massive 1667 earthquake and is one of the oldest buildings in the city today. 

As we exited the western Pile Gate, we were treated to yet another location often used by GOT for various scenes, the most famous being the filming of The Riot. The scene showed Joffrey confronting an angry mob when one of the protesters throws manure in his face as he heads back to the Red Keep. 

We headed south toward the water's edge and the Dubrovnik West Harbor area.

Again, this whole sector is loaded with GOT scene locations.There's lot to unpack here. Let's break it down into the separate filming zones used by GOT.

First up, Fort Lovrijenac. As we reach the water's edge, we see a formidable structure high up on a ridge on the right hand side of the harbor. Like Fort Revelin, Lovrijenac lies outside the walls of the Old Town. Fort Lovrijenac protected Old Town against sea attacks coming from their southern and southwestern access points.

In GOT lore, Fort Lovrijenac is the fictional home of The Red Keep. Joffrey's Name Day and conversations between Cersei and Littlefinger were filmed inside these fortifications. Rumor has it that the fort is for rent for weddings at $4,200 per event!

The body of water below Fort Lovrijenac was used for the epic Battle of Blackwater Bay when Stannis Baratheon tried to take the Iron Throne from King Joffrey. The pier that extends out toward the rocks was also used in a scene between Sansa and Littlefinger.

Let's move over the body of water closest to the Old Town walls, called Pile Harbor. In GOT, the location was recast as King's Landing Harbor.

Almost all the scenes showing arrivals and departures from King's Landing were shot here. In real life, the beach is actually the launching area for rental kayaks. GOT had to hire all the kayaks to close the location for filming!

The Old Town walls rise high above Pile Harbor and extend in a southern direction toward the sea. Strategically located at the point of that extension, we find one of the more impressive fortification along the walls: Fort Bokar. 

Fort Bokar protected Old Town against sea attacks coming from their southern and southeastern access points. Together, Fort Bokar, Fort Lovrijenac, and St. John's Fort secured Dubrovnik from sea attack for centuries.

GOT used Fort Bokar's high profile walls as King's Landing props in several scenes. Tyrion and Lord Varys were filmed having a serious discussion about the defense of King's Landing as they looked out at the sea.

In another scene, Cersei confides in Jaime that she is forming an alliance with Grayjoy. The most dramatic scene shows Daenerys sitting on top of one of her dragons as she plans to torch the city below.

As we left the Pile Harbor area, we walked back into Old Town through Pile Gate. This time we headed over to the northern walls. The Minceta Tower fortification sits at the highest point on the northern wall. It's quite a steep climb to the Tower, but apparently the views are well worth the intense walk.

The Minceta Tower is iconic Dubrovnik with its rounded tower. The Tower was pivotal in guarding Old Town against landside invaders to the north and northeast. The high walls of Minceta Tower and Fort Revelin formed an impenetrable barrier for centuries.

Minceta Tower was also showcased in GOT. The base of this fortification was featured as the House of the Undying in Qarth. The Tower is also used in the scene where Daenerys discovers that her dragons are missing. Daenerys is shown entering the House of the Undying to search for her beloved creatures. 

There's so much more to explore in Old Town, but our time was running out and we sadly headed back to our van.

What a fantastic day! But, wait ... our driver still had a surprise! He had promised to take us to a special viewing point high above Dubrovnik. We headed south and quickly gained altitude until we reached a lookout point above Sveti Jakov Beach. From here, we had awesome views of Old Town and the Island of Lokrum.

We were interested to learn that Lokrum also featured prominently in GOT. The island was used to show the City of Qarth. Some of the garden scenes were filmed in the beautiful botanical gardens of Lokrum.

Although not filmed there, the famed Iron Throne is now housed in Lokrum Island's Visitors' Center, making it a definite destination for GOT fans!. Ferries depart from the ports of Old Town Port quite regularly. Unfortunately, we just didn't have the time.

As we left Dubrovnik, we were sad to think that we may never return to Dubrovnik. It was a long day, but worth every single minute!

Omis is not to be missed (pronounced Omeesh in Croatian). If you like a combination of adventure, history, natural beauty, along with a touristy vibe, then Omis should be on your Croatia itinerary.

The visit to Omis was left till the end of our Croatia itinerary, even though it is only six miles/10 km from our Croatia home base of Suhi Potok. Many of the locals had encouraged us to visit the natural beauty of Omis, so we were quite eager to see what all the fuss was about before we left Croatia.

Having seen the bus to Omis pass us many times while we were waiting for our Split bus, we felt confident about getting to our destination without incidence. Hmmm...wrong! A reality check was in order.

After boarding the correct bus, we missed the Omis stop near Old Town and ended up at a remote stop a few miles south of town--with no cell signal.

We tried to query the bus driver about once we realized our mistake, but he wasn't very nice, telling us to get off because he didn't have time and was about to take his break!

Flustered and confused, we were fortunate to meet a very nice Croatian woman who let us know that the bus would be coming back through in about 30 minutes. She was right! The same rude bus driver arrived, this time friendly and polite, and took us to the correct stop at no further charge.

Our Omis adventure began when we found a local pekara, or bakery, a short distance from the stop. One apple, one blackberry pastry later, and the memory of our mistake faded away. Happy again! 

Pastries in hand, we headed to the small Old Town section of Omis. The town was built at the strategically important point where the Cetina River enters the Adriatic Sea. Major settlements pre-date the 13th Century.

Omis was likely originally settled by the Illyrians and Greeks more than 2,000 years ago. The area was later controlled by the Romans and Byzantines. These were all minor outposts.

The first major settlements appear in the archeological record some time after the 10th Century AD. Omis' strategic location on the the Adriatic was of great interest to the major seafaring powers--and the pirates (Corsairs) of the Adriatic.

The Corsairs actually became quite a power broker in the region when they joined with the local Poljica Principality highlanders to defend their territory.

The local inhabitants were originally known to be skilled and innovative boat builders. Their biggest maritime advantage came when they built the Sagittae--the Arrow. These versatile seafaring boats were equally adept in the shallower canyons of the Cetina River. 

The smaller Sagittae design allowed merchants and pirates to easily evade the bigger ships. Their size and speed were also seen as an advantage for maneuvering the many inlets scattered around the Adriatic.

Omis became a pirate haven between the 12th and 13th Centuries. The canyons of the Cetina River were perfect for hiding in-between raids. The big ships could not follow them up river.

The Omis pirates were also known to attack the Crusader fleets as they returned from Constantinople. Pirating was such a problem that the Pope eventually ordered a coordinated attack to crush the pirates once and for all. But, it wasn't until 1444 that the corsairs were finally defeated by the Kingdom of Venice. 

Venetian control eventually passed to the French, Austrians, and Austro-Hungarians in the 19th and 20th Centuries.

Reaching the eastern gates of Omis Old Town, we wandered along its quaint, narrow streets. Winding in and out of each other, they created a maze-like effect, taking us in circles at times. Not minding the at all, we just took our time absorbing the Old Town charm.

Omis had so many nooks and crannies waiting to be explored. One could feel the history and culture with every step.

The first major building of note was the beautiful 17th Century Church of St. Michael, the focal point of St. Michael's Square. Taking our time to appreciate the architecture, we stepped inside for a few moments of peaceful contemplation before continuing our explorations.

Next stop was Mirabella Fortress, the largest imposing structure in Omis. Rising above the town's tallest buildings, we realized there would be quite a bit of climbing.  The hike was quite steep, along narrow stone paths and countless stairs ... but the pay off was sure to please! 

The fortress entry gate was locked when we finally reached the top of the first series of stairs. The opening time, according to the schedule on the old rusted sign, was 9 am. Fortunately, we didn't have long to wait. 

The attendant soon arrived and welcomed us to the fortress. Looking up at the very narrow stairs and pathways leading to the fortress, we were definitely concerned about getting to the top. Rainman's fear of heights was always a factor in these situations.

Consulting with the entrance attendant, he graciously gave us the option to pay the $4 admission fee on our way out--assuming a successful summit.

As always, the best strategy would be to tackle the ascent one stage at a time. The first set of stone steps were very doable. Rising to the next level, we reached the first viewing platform, with stunning views of the Cetina River, the Cetina Canyon, and Omis Old Town.

Leaving the perceived safety of the flat viewing area, we inched our way up the next series of stairs heading toward the second viewing platform. From here we had the perfect view of the east-facing part of Omis.

Next came the toughest part of the climb--the final series of stone stairs leading to the summit of Mirabella Fortress.

The fortress was originally built to help in the defense of the town. Omis Corsairs also used this defensive position as they fled from their pursuers. This all made perfect sense. Invaders would have a very difficult time fighting their way to the top.

The final stage of the ascent took its toll! Look carefully ... who's missing on this climb? Rainman's fear of heights kicked in as usual. Tricia had to summit  by herself.

Whether you choose to summit or only venture to the second viewing platform, views of Omis from either vantage point are more than worth the effort.

The time had come to head back down the stone stairs to continue our exploration of Omis.

Reaching the ground level, we made our way toward the street that runs along the river.

Omis is  known as one of the major adventure tourism centers in Croatia. Given that we were already deep into June, it wasn't surprising to see row upon row of water excursion craft up and down the river.

Omis is all about outdoor active fun! The most popular excursions include:

In other words, there's something for just about everyone in Omis! Just be warned, the summers tend to be insanely busy. You'll want to book your lodgings and excursions early if possible.

The modern downtown area of Omis has everything vacationers need for a great vacation--all within easy walking distance. 

One of the main streets has a vibrant market with vendors selling fresh fruits, vegetables, dessert goodies, and all kinds of tasty cheeses and meats.

The town has a decided laid-back vibe. Who can argue with pastry and gelato shops on every corner, ... and they even have an Irish Pub!

Omis is very accessible from Split. The #60 express bus will get you there in less than 40 minutes!

For those interested in lounging at the beach, Omis has several beautiful beaches near the mouth of the river.

Omis has all of the amenities and luxuries you'd want in a beach resort town:

As you can see, Omis has a lot to offer, making it a top-notch vacation destination for any visit to Croatia.

We really enjoyed our time in Omis, and would seriously consider it as a home base if we were to return to Croatia. It was one of our definite favorite destinations in the country.

Three months exploring Croatia's Dalmatian coast went by too quickly.  There was so much to explore in such a beautiful setting! The country's UNESCO Heritage Sites were especially interesting.

Final goodbyes were exchanged with the friends we'd made during our stay--Romana from our favorite grocery store, Pjerino from Zazu, one of our favorite restaurants, and of course, our gracious hosts Ante and Neda.

We took a final stroll along the stunning coastline of Dugi Rat for a coffee at Knoba Poseidon, and a swim at our favorite beach. It was going to be hard to leave this idyllic setting!

The time had come for final packing, checking our travel arrangements for the next leg of our trip, and sadly leaving our little slice of heaven in Jesenice. 

Moving on from a place you've called home and really loved is never easy, knowing we may never return or at least not any time soon. There are too many new places to explore! That's the down side of travel, but a necessary part of getting to another new experience. 

After all, we are living our Better Lives, on the Road! We wouldn't have it any other way ...

Next up for us: Huatulco, in Oaxaca, Mexico! Flying from Split to Munich, to Mexico City, to Huatulco. From there we would be taking a taxi to the small village of La Crucecita, and our second floor apartment in a modern condo. This would be our new home till the middle of September 2022.

Ready for our next adventure? We are! Stay tuned... 

We are The Roadhackers, Rainman and Tricia. 

Happy travels to all. See you on the road!

Reny is the official Hacking the Road travel mascot!

At the end of each Destination Blog, Reny rates the overall experience.

Here's Reny's awesome scale:

Reny rates the Dalmatia Region:  4 RENYS!

The beaches ... the crystal blue Adriatic Sea ... stunning views ...
the seaside village of Suhi Potok ... the Dalmatian green markets ... 
the Diocletian Palace ... the Split Riva ... Marjan Hill ... 
Krka National Park ... Skradin ... Trogir ... Omis ... Old Town Dubrovnik ... pastries ... swimming ... gardens ... the Croatian people

Reny wanted to keep going, but we had to reign in his enthusiasm!